DIY Waxoyl

It needs a thorough chassis hot pressure washing first off. Then let dry then inject waxoyl into chassis box sections using the amazing number of holes then spray the external chassis, axle and under floor area. Avoid brake discs by covering them in sacking. Ideally you would use a lift. Less ideally a chain attached to an upside-down tow ball and the rear lifted by an industrial loader until the nose touches the ground [not forgetting the use of safety props]. You would also use compressed air and proper tools to apply the product rather than the inadequate freebies supplied by Waxoyl.

Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.

Huw

Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!

I don't know of any 'professional' that would thoroughly wash the chassis. It is a pig of a job to clean all the nooks and crannies and very few have a lift in a washbay. I can guarantee that you, if you are a thorough and fastidious chap, that you will do a much better job than anyone else, unless you are almost useless, lift gear permitting. All other tools can be rented by the day from your local tool hire depot. The whole job can be done in a day. The only tricky bit is the lifting to wash and waxoyl thoroughly. It is a nasty dirty job though and if you do like to stay clean then you will not like it. However, many people have to do things they do not like so you may as well get on with it.

Huw

A JCB and large towing chain borrowed for the weekend?

I can just see the chain breaking while you are steaming the front crossmember 0-)

Huw

It would be one way to stop spending money on it !!!

It's not that bad really - cost so far £5400 - that includes the car, full service 2" lift kit and full stainless exhaust, seems to turn a lot more heads than a £30K motor!, could just be the noise though !!!

"StaffBull" wrote in news:ctouqo$lk6$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk:

I can honestly say I didn't find this as difficult as I was led to believe it might be.

I chose a hot day in summer. I spent some time washing the underside of the vehicle (over several days) before beginning with a power washer. I also drilled a couple of holes at the lowest point of the chassis to let the water drain out. I ran a lot of water through the chassis, poking up a bit of wire to remove all loose rust. I then left it to dry, again on a hot breezy summer's day.

I got the dog's boiler going (I have a kennels) and popped the tin of Waxoyl in about three inches of water so it could really warm up. I also made sure I had some white spirit handy to put through the sprayer thingy every time it started to clog or I stopped for a cup of tea.

The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as you slowly pull it back out.

So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the tin!

Derry

I did similar to Derry. The rear crossmember got derusted and cleaned, then coated with two lots of POR15 followed by black Hammerite. A coat is needed over the POR15 because it isn't UV stable and will deteriorate in sunlight.

I then used the Waxoyl stirrup pump type thing that works with the small drums. I waited until one of the hottest days last summer and left the drum in a bucket of hot water for half hour before spraying.

The pump works very well and I had no trouble at all, no clogging, no blocking.

If you ever use POR15, heed the warning on the tin about not getting it on your skin, or anything else for that matter. It will not come off.

Stand can in boiling water before oyu use it, try to get a proper spray gun of some type if you can, drill holes ( carefully ) to get to difficult bits eg bulkheads,

Understanding friends as you will smell like s,,,t and don't smoke for a while or you will resemble your pooch .... Woof

I did both our 90 and Discovery before the winter. A good pressure wash off and then let it dry for sveral days. I left each one in the garage when it was raining to help keep the damp off. I lifted the front and back and put axle stands under as high as they would go. Cover the brakes with a dustbin sack and try to cover as much of the exhaust as possible. Stand the tin in a bowl of hot water. I bought a 'shutz' gun to spray but even with a low pressure it just blew it everywhere so I used the pump up waxoyl gun. Got a good even coat on it. The last time I did the Discovery was about 5 years ago and it had lasted pretty good. Also, do inside the chassis with the probe. Richard ps. cover the floor with some paper/old dustsheets

Did the replacment bulkhead I fitted to my 90 with waxoyl, stunk for a few weeks after when it was hot (heater) but smells gone now :O)

True but then you don't need a raincoat :-)))

And you won't go rusty either!

I did my new bulkhead before I fitted it..... hung upside down from the garage roof and pour! Wait 1/2 hour and turn right way up, with a LOT of absorbent material underneath and leave overnight. Horrible, horrible messy stuff to work with but it does what it says on the tin. Badger.

P.S. Derry, I worked out where you live from your email address, I can understand why you wouldn't be over impressed with your local landy specialist up the hill behind you........ the word rogue springs to mind, except it isn't a bad enough description! In your line of work, do you know a bloke by the name of Pete Boulton?

I hope the Landy's ok too!

"Badger" wrote in news:cttqg4$s4s$ snipped-for-privacy@titan.btinternet.com:

If we are talking about the same guy, I have absolutely no complaints, rather the reverse. No, the rogue trader is in Inverness.

I am probably a fool but I take people on face value until I discover otherwise. If we are talking about the same guy, he has just done the timing belt on my 300 Tdi. I got the conversion kit for him to fit as it is listed as one of the affected vin numbers.

But apparently it is not one of those affected. (He predicted it wouldn't be). It already has the flanged pulley. Now there was an excellent opportunity for a "rogue" to tell me he had fitted the new parts -- then kept my kit for another job. But he didn't.

It is dangerous to defame people unless there is proof that will stand up in court. Also, for a successful action in defamation it is enough that the person can be identified, he doesn't have to be named. Just some friendly advice. You may bet that I have that evidence concerning my business with the Inverness garage or I would have kept my mouth firmly shut!

IANAL

Derry

"Badger" wrote in news:cttqg4$s4s$ snipped-for-privacy@titan.btinternet.com:

Badger,

Further to my post earlier today, I think you have got it wrong! Just shows how careful one should be!

I live near Tain, in Easter Ross, and left Advie about 35 years ago. I just took the name of the village as the affix for my kennels.

I know who you mean but have no experience either way. I was offered a rear tub but got one from England instead. Make of that what you will.

Take care -- and I mean that most sincerely.

Derry

Well, that's nice to know. Seems like he's changed then, I'm glad to hear it 'cos I actually quite like the guy!

He did a chassis change for me many, many years ago at his previous place further down the road, it took 2 days to "put to rights" all his mistakes and bad workmanship. He scratched all the roof above the doors where he slung the body off (with chains, and nothing protecting the guttering, seals or paint!!), left brake pipe unions untightened - I lost the brakes on the way home!!, didn't bleed the clutch properly, the main battery lead to the starter was unsecure, it welded itself to the underside of the r/h exhaust manifold - the only thing that stopped the vehicle going on fire was the fact that the battery terminals weren't tightened, I managed to pull the negative off to break the circuit but burnt my hand in the process. I was absolutely fuming at the time, he got a rocket from me over the phone at the time and told where he could stick the extra that he was due (an extra hundred quid or so had miraculously worked its way into the fixed price quote!), unless he wanted me to go to trading standards. I never spoke to him or dealt with him again until about 4 years ago. I see him maybe once a year, only if I can't source a part from elsewhere. But, for all that, I do actually find him quite a likeable sort of bloke. I get on ok with him now, that whole carry on doesn't even get mentioned anymore, but I still wouldn't trust him to work on any motor of mine ever again. That's the factual evidence that I relate to when I criticise/defame him, plenty of photos were taken at the time as proof in case it went any further. I'm not that stupid. Badger.

"Badger" wrote in news:ctvkuc$4n9$ snipped-for-privacy@titan.btinternet.com:

Please see my follow up post number 142011!!

We are talking about two different people. I have not lived on Speyside, where I suspect your mechanic is located, for over 35 years!

The guy "up on the hill" near me from Tain, Easter Ross, has been 100% straight and honest with me. He has done LR work for me as well as leasing my summer grazing during 2004. No problems whatsoever.

Two completely different people.

Derry