Reliant Scimitar Coupe - cooling issues...

Hi
A freind of mine has recently acquired a 1967 Reliant Scimitar coupe fitted with the 3 litre V6 engine.
Whilst he is very happy with the car, he is continually bugged by what
appears to be a very high operating temperature (the guage sits comfortably beyond the top of its range when the electric fan isn't providing any assistance). This operating temperature remains high even when the car is moving at speed.
The car was fitted with a four blade steel fan on the end of the crank shaft, but the lack of cowl surrounding this rendered it totally useless. This fan was removed as a result leaving the just the electric fan which, used constantly, is very effective.
Whilst using the electric fan constantly seems daft, it seems the only solution to the problem. Any advice will be very greatly recieved.
Cheers, Max.
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On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 14:04:37 +0000 (UTC), undercover elephant

...when I ran one of these it was OK except in the worst traffic, but it had all of its baffles around the rad. Lots of info in the club resources on cooling issues, well there were 10 years ago anyway! The most radical solution I heard of was to make a duct to take hot air out from the bay behind the front wheels and out thru the wing, have also heard of jacking the trailing edge of the bonnet up but you get oil on the screen. The questions to ask are 1. is the engine overheating (timing, carburation, head gaskets, water pump, thermostat etc), 2. is the colling system correctly configured, people do try to improve it!, 3 can I find a way of getting hot air out of the engine bay, given that the original design was not too good in this respect.
enough hot air for now.
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undercover elephant wrote:

What is the actual temperature of the coolant and that is measured with a calibrated thermometer in the top of the radiator.
There are times when we assume that the gauge is reading correctly which on occasions its not - the gauge only reads about 20C total and if the sender is inaccurate we see these sorts of panic situations of high operating temperatures.
rm
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It's summer. They all (well, all the early ones) run warm in summer, but this sounds extreme. You certainly want the fan on all the time if it's doing that.
Solution I'd recommend is a good thermostatically-controlled fan, which was certainly the Reliant solution by '70 with the GTE. It'd probably be worth him talking to one of the specialists to see how best to go about it - I'd recommend Denpart in Derbyshire (see www.scimweb.org for the address/phone no.), but all the specialists listed on scimweb know of what they speak. But I reckon you'd not go far wrong fitting something like a Kenlowe fan. Might also be worth checking the state of the radiator, just in case some of it's blocked.
As a last resort, I've seen a numnber of V6 coupes with ventilation slots. a la Jensen Interceptor or FF, opened up in the front wings in a desperate attempt to get more air in & out. People have been doing that since the things were new, so it's *almost* authentic.
Good luck getting it sorted.
Andy, owner of a '70 GTE
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Use the electric fan. Overheating was a serious issue. My old man got the radiator re-cored with larger cores and it helped tremendously. Not cheap though.
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fitted
Sounds to me as if it has the wrong temperature transmitter hermistor) --- the transmitter has to be matched to the dashboard instrument to give the correct reading Ford used different ones to other UK manufacturers and the engine is fitted to a Reliant not a Ford --- check the temperature at the thermostat elbow with a digital probe.
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comfortably
Sell the car. They're dogs.
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wrote

is
As a non Reliant person who had a lot of contact with one through a customer's car I can say you are wrong about that, very well engineered motor car not to my taste but the only fault was the Ford V6 -- The early Essex V6 was a disaster although it got better in the early 70s and the Colonge V6 while better still wasn't a great engine..
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wrote:

Likewise, I know it's each to their own, but why do you dislike them so much?
A capable, relatively economical and totally different car, that doesn't rust (much) and has a great exhaust note for under three grand - I can't think of anything else that can match it to be honest!
He is twenty years old (as am I), trust me, it's a damn sight better than some crap like a 'jumped-up' Nova
Max
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Where do you start?
I owned one for 2 years and it broke down or was otherwise unreliable around 20% of the time, meaning there was a 20% chance it wouldn't start or stop on any given day, despite my spending thousands. It broke down probably 20 times in 2 years which means it broke more frequently than all the other cars I've ever owned put together.
As well as persistent overheating, the brakes regularly failed, as did the electricals and the windscreen wipers; the engine went off tune every 100 miles or so and as a result it did about 12 to the gallon; it used batteries every 1000 miles or so, the tyres constantly deflated, it rattled, it grounded its exhaust on speedbumps....the list goes on. I cannot think of a single good point about it except its rarity, but that's really a consequence of its undesirability.
I would seriously recommend to the OP that he acquire a cheap second car, a 200 Escort maybe, as a spare for all the times the Reliant will let him down.
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snip
batteries
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All of which tells us a lot more about your or the person who maintained the car mechanical knowledge (or rather lack off ) than the car. The mechanicals on the Scimitar aren't rocket science just typical mid-late 60s standard parts, reliable and easy to fix provided you treat the fault not the symptoms. Simple skills like knowing that the charging volage must be fully checked when ever a battery problem is suspected or how to properly gap the contact points in a Fomoco distributer. Like I said before I'wouldn't want to own one myself but years of working on a a rather well used customers car left me impressed with the soundness of the design.
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Flush out the cooling system, change rad cap and thermostate. and always allow it to tickover for a few minutes after a hard run to stop boilover after engine is switched off. the temp gauge should read 90 if it gets hotter than this the coolant will discharge out the cap. It worked on mine anyhow..
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