1994 electrical starting problem

I have replaced the alternator, positve battery cables and tested the battery, all fine.

When i try to start the car it turns over really hard once, then fires up within the next 2 cranks.

Its gotta be the wiring since when the car starts the radio clock is reset and stations gone. Also the charge guage in the dash stays below normal range for maybee 3 seconds then goes back to normal charging range.

History

About a month ago i thought the battry was dieing so i went to buy a new one, the battery tested good the guy came outside and tested the polls while the truck was running, the charge was 12 so i thought ALTERNATOR, replaced it and the truck worked fine for about 2 weeks. i hunted around the web and found the positive battery cable to be a common problem and low and behold the cable was coroded to all hell so i replaced it. My question is did i fry the alternator again by running it through bad corroded cables?

Reply to
Happy Father
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"Happy Father" wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@magma.ca:

Well, the "hard" crank, which I take it you mean, not enough power in the battery to turn the starter, sounds battery like. Because the battery still has reserve juice to continue.

When you go to start the car, there is nothing but battery power involved.

SOunds like an aftermarket radio that was wired maybe directly to the battery? Or it sounds like it's wired to a circuit that isn't constant voltage with the key out.

The battery sounds either too small for your vehicle or your starter solenoid is going bad. The little electrical motor is geared up with the starter, to give tremendous slow cranking power to turn over a cold engine. If that motor is going bad, that might cause the hard starting.

But it sounds like you need to take the battery in and have a specific gravity test and load test done on it. Many autopepboys type shops will do that for free. Make sure you call and ask before if their equipment is working.

-- Riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Reply to
RikiTikiTavi

12 volts on the battery when the truck is running is on the low side. Charging voltage should be up around 14 volts. Try to get a load test done on the battery, not just an unloaded voltage test. And while your at it, check the negative battery cable. It is not immune to failure.

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie Bress

it turns out the battery was shot because the cables where so bad it had grounded out and killed it.

Reply to
Happy Father

Huh? that makes no sense at all.....

Reply to
Dr. Rastis Fafoofnik

I'd like to hear a more detailed description of your cables. I'm trying to imagine a cable that is covered with red plastic and then enclosed in black corrugated plastic somehow becoming exposed and coming in contact with grounded metal. Was something hitting it?

Reply to
Ulysses

ok

as in my original post

I relaced the alternator, then the positive battery cable. the old cable was completely corroded and exposed in areas not seen until it was off, therefore it was arching. this in turn fried the battery over time, get it?

I have done a lot of research on this and it turns out that the positve battery cable is a very common weak spot on the explorer, expecially the older models. the cables have been known to corode on the inside hardley showing anything such as wear or buring on the outside. If u see wear on the outside such as burning, etc. get it fixed since it can cause serious damage if not a fire within the engine.

Something to keep in mind with an older explorer.

Reply to
Happy Father

"Happy Father" wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@magma.ca:

Thanks for the headsup. It's nice to know my advice was right, for a change! :)

-- riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Reply to
RikiTikiTavi

"Happy Father" wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@magma.ca:

I read this advice over 3 years ago and went out to look at my battery cable. I'd had a little bit of problems before with hard cranking and dim lights and stuff.

So I carefully looked and you had to really look, I pulled away some of the cable and it was all corroded inside the cable, close by the terminal, like power termites been eating on it! But there was a lot of the copper wiring left, so I poured baking soda with water into the cable assy, let it sit for several hours, flushed it out with clean water, dried it out, waited, then lubricated it well with Vasoline then tightly wrapped it up airtight with electrical tape and I haven't had a problem since. I'm a cheap and lazy! :)

-- riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Reply to
RikiTikiTavi

...and somewhat foolish. The "corroding battery cable syndrome" that seems to inflict many (or all?) of Ford's products of the 1990's is one of those things that will leave you (or your SO) standed someplace. For the low cost of a new posititive cable (it only seems to effect the positive cables) you can avoid the cost of a tow or emergency service .

YMMV,

-Fred W

Reply to
Fred W

Fred W wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com:

Low cost? I was quoted $24.99 for that durn cable. Then installing it through all that cluster F of crap Ford jams in there.

It's working fine, 3 years later. I got to the corrosion before it wasted the copper strands totally away. I estimate that I only lost maybe 10% total carrying capacity. Since most cables like that are over rated by about 50% or more, I'm fine.

Reply to
RikiTikiTavi

If you lose that final "r" in your signature, it'll work right.

Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Reply to
Big Bill

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