I was hoping someone could help me out hear I have a 98 jeep wrangler that won't charge the battery. so I thought it must be the alternator so I had it checked at auto-zone but they said it was okay and the battery seems to charge when you charge it with battery charger so I think the battery is fine any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I think your voltage regulator is inside the expensive main computer rather than inside the alternator which isn't an expensive repair....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >The VR is INSIDE the computer?!? Yikes, that sounds like some lame engineering to me.
If that's the case, and if it was my Jeep, I would seriously consider doing a little creative reengineering and replacing the factory alternator with a unit with a built in regulator and doing a little rewiring... it's not that difficult.
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Roma> I think your voltage regulator is inside the expensive main computer
Lame engineering depends on your goals. Why design a circuit where the owner can cheaply and readily replace a component when you can design one where a truly horrendously expensive part needs to be replaced if it fails? Ok, so maybe it is easier to keep the PCM at the right voltage if the PCM itself controls that voltage.
Jeffrey DeWitt proclaimed:
The 'one wire' AC Delco alternator like the CJ's use comes to mind. That just needs one keyswitched 12 volts to trigger the field and a direct fuse linked wire to the battery. I think you might have issues with the dash idiot lights though...
Mike
Jeffrey DeWitt wrote:
Mike, The only way to POSITIVELY check a battery is with a hydrometer and get a reading of the specific gravity (a voltage meter doesn't cut it:). Having said that, besides the voltage regulator, ensure your connections are clean - not just on top. Remove them clean top, bottom, and inside. Especially overlooked is the negative / ground that goes to the frame or engine. Give each of these a tug and also look for any green / corrosion on exposed conductors - clean and tape (or reattach a new connector if enough slack). Good Luck. Steve in Michigan
97 TJ auto 6 stock"popeyeball" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
Agreed but too many batteries have the cells sealed now. Load testing is the only way they can be checked....
popeyeball proclaimed:
You can check the condition of a battery as well with a voltmeter as with a hydrometer. In the case of a sealed one, better. The battery needs to be put under load for a while to do it accurately.
You will have problems with the alternator idiot light, however depending on how willing you are to rework some wiring you can fix tha , or what is probably a better solution is to install a ammeter and just take the alternator idiot light bulb out.
Jeff DeWitt
Mike Roma> The 'one wire' AC Delco alternator like the CJ's use comes to mind.
You can get a real good idea by looking at the level of the electrolyte in the batteries too. I find that a bad cell usually has a marked difference in fluid level beside the good cells. It will either be low or too full.
Most 'sealed' batteries can be carefully opened by cutting the label and prying up. If not, then a load test is needed. You must have a fully 'charged' battery for a proper load test.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >thanks for the suggestions guys I tried a different battery completely with the same result but I did get it pretty muddy 2 weekends :) ago so I'm going to check all the wiring to make sure nothing loose corroded. sorry I was so slow on responding thanks a million for the suggestions. thanks mike
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.