93 Ford Explorer Spark Plug Change

Somewhere between difficult and very difficult.

It's been a while since I've done it but the plug nearest the firewall on (I think) the passenger side can only be accessed through the wheel well. I've done it without removing the wheel but it might make it a bit easier if you remove it. Make sure you have different size socket extensions, a universal (may not need), and plenty of band-aids. The plug in the middle may also try your patience but is not quite as bad. Keep trying different combinations of extensions until you get one that fits on the plug and can be turned.

I always change my plugs one at a time so only one wire is disconnected at a time--no mixing up the wires. Same thing when changing wires--one at a time. I like either the Bosch or Ford plug wires. I recommend that you do not buy the cheap wires as they will cause you grief the next time you go to change plugs. Also, I spray a little WD-40 on the plugs before installing, both on the threads and the ceramic part. It makes it easier to thread them in and get the wire off later without the wire getting stuck and coming apart.

I do not find it extremely difficult but I do not thing the Ford Explorer is a good car to start learning how to change plugs. You have to go through the wheel well after jacking the front end up a little.

It is very easy to crack a plug when changing the plugs on the explorer due to the fact that you need a universal socket and extension. BE CAREFUL. Cracked insulators can look perfectly normal and be very hard to detect when you crack them. So be real careful on how you apply torque.

Good luck. You can do it but be CAREFUL !!!

Sam in Raleigh.

Ditto on the passenger side plugs. I'm able to crawl under my '93 4 door XLT, 4.0 liter v-6, without jacking it up; I use a foam rubber mat on the ground to keep it comfortable, since I won't fit while laying on my creeper.

Ditto on the various sizes of socket extensions and a universal socket (or possibly wobble extensions).

Ditto on the bandaids. Wear gloves. You'll be working blind on at least one, maybe more on the passenger side, and they will probably require some force to break free. If you can't get it loose, try a cheater on your ratchet, but be careful or you'll break off the plug.

After you do it once, you'll probably wonder why you didn't take it to the shop, unless it goes well for you. Or you'll feel so good about saving $100 that you won't mind the busted knuckles, and extra trips to the tool store for the right combo of ratchet, sockets, extensions, etc.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I'm sure the wires would be fairly simple, just be sure you label things so you get the new ones on the right plugs and coil location. As to the Plugs, they are fairly simple also but the ones on the passenger side, esp the ones toward the back, are most easily removed by working thru the wheel well opening rather then up top. Some people can do it without removing the wheel other like to remove the wheel to have more room to work in. As I recall the farthest back plug is more of a "do it by feel" rather then being able to really see what you are doing. I recommend Motorcraft Double Plats and most likely you'll never need to change them again while you own it.

I have three early Explorers and so I go through this procedure several times a year.

To make things even more comfortable, I usually remove the air-filter box and duct. It's a good occasion to clean the MAF-sensor with a spray of breakdust cleaner and pressurized air. A soiled MAF is sometimes responsible for a bad performance.

To make sure you don't confuse any of the spark plug wires, you can change one at a time. It might not be the most sophisticated way of doing it and probably even take a few minutes longer, but you can be pretty sure that everything's in place when you're done.

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