New pump and rack...power steering still doesn't work

May 11, 2004 3 Replies

I have a 97 Explorer Limited 4WD 4.0 SOHC. My power steering went out a few months ago. After talking with friends and mechanics, I decided to replace both the pump and the rack. After installing both and getting everything back together (I even remembered to pull the power steering pressure valve out of the old rack and put it into the new rack), I filled up the reservoir and started it up. I continued to fill the reservoir while bleeding the system by moving the steering wheel from side to side. The pump was noisy at first but it quieted down after about 15 minutes. The reservoir is now at the max mark and the fluid is no longer foamy looking; it is clear and calm.



Here's the problem: In park at idle, it acts as though there is no power steering, the steering wheel is very difficult to turn. If i step on the gas to bring up the RPMs, the wheel turns fine. This is true while driving too, no matter what speed, if the engine is running slowly (~800 RPM) the wheel won't turn, but if I step on the gas it turns fine. Only a few hundred RPMs makes a difference, it will turn fine at about 1100RPM.



What is the problem here? Do I need to give the pump more time to break in?



Thanks for the help, Dave


I think there needs to be a little more testing....... there is the possibility of a restriction in the system - some dealers and few independant shops are equipped with guages to accomplish this but it may be just as cheap to just replace the lines. If parts were purchased with pricing as the major consideration, there remains the possibility of poor quality control. Lastly, the correct way to start purging a power steering system is to raise both wheels off the ground and cycle the steering from lock to lock with the motor off while keeping tabs on fluid level. Start the motor and repeat the process and then lower the wheels to the ground and check the operation. In cases where any noise refuses to leave, we can apply vacuum to the reservoir and run the system.

Since it's not so hard to forget things, there is the chance that the relief valve is stuck open or debris from the cooler was washed into the pump or rack.

What valve on the rack had to be transferred?

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Thanks for responding Jim.

I purchased the rack and pump from Autozone. The rack was $109 and the pump was $81. I priced the lines because I was going to replace those too but NAPA was the only place that had the pressure line and it was $119! I couldn't find the return line for sale anywhere. I even called the local Ford dealer and they said if they were to do the job they wouldn't replace the lines.

I will jack up the truck and try the method of bleeding that you suggested. Where is the relief valve located and is it something that I can replace?

The valve that I transferred I only learned about by reading the removal/installation method from the shop CD that I bought off ebay. If you have access to the shop CD, which I'm sure you do, you'll see it in step 19 of the removal process and step 9 of the installation process. Its a tiny little spring loaded valve that sits deep down inside the hole in the rack where the pressure line screws in. The Haynes manual and the instructions included with the rack didn't mention the valve so I wouldn't have even noticed it if I hadn't read the shop CD procedure.

Dave

OK... found it (I have the yellow DVD copied to my hard drive) - must have glossed over it in my haste. The pressure regulator is in the pump, if you undo the line and then the big fitting that the line screws into, there is a spring loaded valve (looks a little bit like a mushroom).... I have seen these stick in the bore the odd time.

The valve in the rack isn't serviceable on later models so I believe I've just missed the pleasure of any experience with it.

I hope one of the simpler things I've mentioned is the cure for your troubles....

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

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