my truck stalls sometimes when i come to a stop, when i hit the brakes it
will stall before i come to a stop...i can pop it and get it started,
sometimes she does it again but not usually. no problem starting it again
and running routinely for another couple hours,
-this happens on both tanks
these are some of the things she does to me
-when i pull the battery cable off it stalls
-sometimes she discharges for no reason, when i rev she goes normal then
drops again, sometimes it runs fine no problems like that- dry or wet no
-my engine revs high for extended periods in the mornings, i attribute that
to charging system problems, something like when the old carbs vacum advance
would stick on high idle
Pulling the battery cable off when the truck is running is a quick way to
find out what a voltage spike can do to a PCM...
On a truck this old that is showing intermittent charging system concerns, I
would consider the alternator brushes as a prime suspect..... As the brushes
wear down, spring pressure is lost and, if the slip rings are out of round,
the brushes get pushed back in the holder and can't follow the rings....
FWIW, in the case of worn alternators, few shops do anything less than
install a rebuilt alternator.... The reasons are many and the thinking is
If your engine revs high in the AM, I would first consider an IAC
concern.... for the stalling, I can only suggest making sure that the basics
are good (base engine - tune up - filters - etc.) and to check and see if
there are any codes in memory that might point the way.
i am thinking of taking it to the shop i just would like to be armed with
some info, maybe hook it up to the machine
thanks for the advice
damn the bearing or the caliper started scraping today on the drivers
side...i am thinking its the caliper that siezed, and hoping this is the
case, she only makes noise when i am moving and the noise goes away when i
hit the brake...but not gone when braking. so i guess its up at six tomorrow
to get her up, tires off oh joy hope its not raining
Be sure to select a shop based on their competency rather than their
price.... A cheap but incompetent shop is a gamble and can weind up costong
much more in the long run...
Good luck with the noise...
i removed the dust cap and the bearings were nice and clean no grease
inside, too bad. good thing i only ran a couple blocks then turned right
around after they started making noise. did both outer bearing repacks on
the front she is fine.
too bad i have to work outside, i would have pulled everything off and done
the inner bearing as well, its so hard to keep clean. i left it for later
but priority now. preventative maintanance.
also yeah, i took my driveshaft into get the hanger bearing pressed in, i
decided that i may as well have the bad rear U joint replaced. the guy asked
me what side was the rear, being in a hurry i have no time for nonsense, it
certainly did not inspire confidence...but it was the closest shop and they
were open earlier.
i get all the work that i cannot do myself or just cant figure out at a
respectable shop here in town. everyone needs a good honest competent go to
guy, no matter how good you are eh?
i did some work on his house, i was ahead of him 950, then i got some major
work done on my truck, i had to give all the money back plus 950
hehehe...too bad his new house doesnt need any work i know the number it
would cost all ready.
The outer bearing on the front is "small potatoes".... this bearing is a
"guide" bearing... it is the inner bearing (if all else is stock) that
carries the bulk of the load....
I assume that brake pads and rotors are good and that the caliper mounting
hardware is all in place?
yeah they are in good shape, but in the next month i wanted to put it all
up and have all the wheels off, do what needs to be done under there, i
noticed some weather cracking in my front drivers side brake hose now i am
wondering what else is going on...time to check it all out. am going to pull
the hubs off somewhere clean and grease that puppy right up.
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