I fail to see why that's a 'better' question, but when the old
alternator was in the car and not giving a charge, it was also assumed
that the original problem was a defective alternator, and a defective
alternator could STILL be the problem; only testing will tell.
I would think the smart thing to do would have been to test the original
alternator. When you start assuming things it gets expensive. He may just
have a bad connection somewhere or a burned fuse link..
Usually with internal avr there is a full field test point where you fully
ground it and get full output, you have to turn on all accessories etc cause
if you don't the voltage will jump excessively, you do this briefly and
monitor voltage and remove the wire once you see voltage spike. You then
know if the basic alternator is ok or its the voltage regulator. Also never
overlook the battery, as there can be bad cells or intermittent bad cells
within the internal workings of the battery.
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