I replaced my belt due to the old one being loose and causing the alternator light to come on at high speeds. Once I replaced the belt, the new one does not seem any tighter. It looks as though the tension pulley is a "3 position" pulley with a needle and three lines. How do I change the position to get the proper tension in my belt?
Replace the tensioner:
Remove serpentine drive belt.
Remove drive belt tensioner retaining bolt from power steering pump support.
Remove drive belt tensioner.
To install new tensioner, reverse removal procedure. Tighten drive belt tensioner retaining bolt to 40-55 N-m (30-40 lb-ft).
Rob
Is there a way to change the setting of the 3 positions? The needle is going back to the first mark on the pulley. The mark closest to the firewall leaving it loose. If I could get it to go back to the middle notch or even the one closest to the front of the engine, it would be tight.
those marks are there to tell you how stretched the belt is. Nothing to "set" or adjust. If the belt is loose it is either the wrong belt (too long)or the tensioner is bad. It is possible you got the wrong belt. Happens to me all the time, seems some partsmen can't read very well :)Have them double check the belt number and then check the number on the belt. But, come to think of it, your original problem was the belt slipping so it almost has to be the tensioner.
Well that's kind of what I'm coming to a decision of. Thanks for your feedback. It's not too hard change is it? Special tools? Or just some band aids after tearing my knuckles open?
That's also assuming he has the correct path on the serp belt....
Bob
yep, band aids for sure :) I don't remember off hand but it prolly has
3 bolts holding it on. It sure aint rocket science.
You should have a 85" belt ("850") if you have the cam-in-block (12 valve) engine. I'll bet the belt routing is wrong if the tensioner is against the outer stop at 3:00.
It goes as follows clockwise:
Around Alternator Behind Idler Around PS Pump Around A/C Around Crank Behind Tensioner Around Water Pump Alternator
It's easy to switch it the wrong way - it looks like the belt is just a tad too long.
Rob
Well it appears it's the right belt. Got a new tension pulley assembly and the alternator light is STILL coming on at higher RPM's. So it has GOT to be the alternator missing contact at the higher RPM's. The belt seems a little tighter but not a huge noticeable difference. SO we'll put a new alternator on today. Any other thoughts??
yep, sounds like the alt. Sorry we diagnosed it wrong but you said the belt was loose.....I guess you meant the alt light was coming on making you think it was the belt?
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