Replace the tensioner:
Remove serpentine drive belt.
Remove drive belt tensioner retaining bolt from power steering pump support.
Remove drive belt tensioner.
To install new tensioner, reverse removal procedure. Tighten drive belt
tensioner retaining bolt to 40-55 N-m (30-40 lb-ft).
Is there a way to change the setting of the 3 positions? The needle is
going back to the first mark on the pulley. The mark closest to the
firewall leaving it loose. If I could get it to go back to the middle
notch or even the one closest to the front of the engine, it would be
those marks are there to tell you how stretched the belt is. Nothing to
"set" or adjust. If the belt is loose it is either the wrong belt (too
long)or the tensioner is bad. It is possible you got the wrong belt.
Happens to me all the time, seems some partsmen can't read very well
:)Have them double check the belt number and then check the number on
the belt. But, come to think of it, your original problem was the belt
slipping so it almost has to be the tensioner.
You should have a 85" belt ("850") if you have the cam-in-block (12
valve) engine. I'll bet the belt routing is wrong if the tensioner is
against the outer stop at 3:00.
It goes as follows clockwise:
Around PS Pump
Around Water Pump
It's easy to switch it the wrong way - it looks like the belt is just a
tad too long.
Well it appears it's the right belt. Got a new tension pulley assembly and
the alternator light is STILL coming on at higher RPM's. So it has GOT to
be the alternator missing contact at the higher RPM's. The belt seems a
little tighter but not a huge noticeable difference. SO we'll put a new
alternator on today. Any other thoughts??
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