Suddenly, the heater blower fan has stopped working. You can hear the
dampers move when the ventilation mode dial is turned, so it seems it is a
fan problem only.
The owner's manual mentions a 30 amp circuit breaker with reset button in
the upper left part of the fuse box area. I see a small black plastic
(about 1 inch by 1/4 inch) thing with a red dot painted on it, but no
Is this black plastic some sort of cover for the button which has to be
pryed off or removed in some fashion?
Thanks in advance.
Most likely you blew the thermal overload fuse on the blower speed control
resistor bank, which is a small module held in the blower motor discharge
duct behind the glove box (thats where it is in my 94 Escort) by two small
self tapping hex head screws. The thermal fuse commonly blows if your
blower is frozen up in the cold or you have snow and slush clogging the
system. I've had several go south over the years. In a pinch, you can
solder a jumper across the blown thermal fuse to get things going again, but
replace the resistor unit ASAP for safety purposes. They are a Ford dealer
item, but typically in stock, about ten bucks, as they are such a common
failure item. In the Escort heater control circuit, the fuse is in series
with all speed's resistor settings, so you lose ALL blower function.
Interestingly enough, my 97 Taurus has the same problem, but full speed
bypasses the thermal fuse, so I only lose the lower speeds of the fan. It
just went out again in the Taurus last week. The Taurus design makes more
sense, since the thermal fuse function is to protect against overheating of
the speed control resistors in the case of a fan motor stall. Since all the
resistors are bypassed in full speed, there is nothing to protect thermally
at the resistor block from overheating. If the motor is stalled in full
speed, the circuit breaker you described protects it.
Lemme guess.. whole lotta snow that turned to ice... Good thing I read this,
because the heater blower on wife's taurus quit... just after i repair the
cracked trans cooler line from plowing into the 18 inches of snow in my
While digging out, heater running on full but didnt check to dee if it was
moving air.. get all else done no blower... until I removed the assy, and
THEN it worked ... corroded rivets on thing I guess.
Replaced it anyway..OF COURSE.. about 19 bucks for the 95 taurus
Chris Bowne opined in
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -
Thanks for the information. As it turned out, it mysteriously was working
two days later on its own, so a blown fuse doesn't seem likely!
Still not sure what happened - or what might make it occur again. It hadn't
snowed much at all from the last time I knew it had been working before the
If it's intermittent, check for loose, burned, or corroded connections on
the resistor pack cable connector. A high resistance (i.e. poor) connection
there can generate a whole lot of heat at that point. I had this problem
with my 94 Escort a while back and had to replace the multipin connector
with spade lugs on the individual leads to mate up with the stabs on the
The root cause of the resistor thermal fuse blowing due to icing in the fan
intlet is the lousy design of the fresh air intakes, where the inlet is
below the bottom of the windshield in that gap between the windshield and
hood that invariably fills up with ice and snow and is hard to clear out.
All that moisture that gets sucked in there also causes lots of windshield
fogging from the inside until the heat cooks it out. You would think after
over a hundred years of automobile design Ford could come up with a better
idea. Come to think of it, didn't the early 50s Fords (and other cars) have
a little exterior door on the heater fresh air intake that kept unwanted
stuff out of it for just this reason? Probably eliminated for "styling" and
Many cars even older than that had a pop-up air inlet.
Cost seems to be the main reason for eliminating good
things like that, sell us less for more money.
The inventor of the concealed wiper should be in jail !!
Thanks so much! After over 2 hours of ripping my dash apart trying t
get to the blower selector switch, I found this post, tested tha
stupid thermal overload fuse, went to the Ford dealer, and had i
fixed for $13. I hate to have seen the bill the dealer would hav
given me to troubleshoot and then fix this thing. This forum i
priceless! Thanks again. :
I had exactly the problem described by Chris Bowne. It was freezin
last several days. And before that, the rain was pouring and it wa
the first time my Ford escort was leaking. There were some wate
under the glove box. I did not pay any attention. Then, the blowe
fan was dead.
I had no clue, but I know if I take my car to some repair shop, th
bill was not acceptable to me. I decided to do it myself. I searche
the internet, and found this. I took the blower out. Ow, a lot of ic
inside. I actually used the hammer to break it. And leave it on th
heater in my room for a while to dry it. Then, I put it back on.
thought it wold be fine. However, it did not work. I came back t
this post. OK, the resistor. I took it off, and brought it back t
test. Yes, that is the problem. Now, I put a jumper on it. The nex
thing is to go to FORD dealer
Thanks! Especially to Chris Bowne
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