As title says, It would start but die instantly. over & over, unless I
kept my foot on the pedal. Did that a while ago, but it started fine on
the third try, so I didn't give it any thought other than a fluke...
This morning, Had to drive with both the gas & brake pedal son it
wouldn't stall in order to bring it to the mechanic 2 streets from
there. Suddenly, a little surge (choke kicking in perhaps?), and of
course, it wouldn't do it at the garage (it would've been to easy :)
Tpnight, started fine, but I noticed something, while at stop lights the
idle dipped twice.
Friend of mine says MAF or O2 sensor. No codes, no CEL.
On a related note, the Y-Pipe is starting to detach itself from the left
catlytic converter (related)
Since winter is coming, I'd like to be able to rely on it, besides, at
60,000Miles, it's a little early to start behaving like my previous POS
My similar experience (with 97 4.6) was Idle Control Valve. For a
picture click the link at the bottom. The part with the egg shaped circle.
THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE
Depending on whom you talk to, this little gadget is called the ISC,
BYP, IAB or IAC valve. Whatever you call it, the valve goes bad due to a
broken motor or soot buildup from crankcase vapors, usually soot. The
answer is to clean the assembly.
Where is it?
On EEC-IV multi-port EFI motors, the idle control valve is located on
the throttlebody. The valve has a cylindrical shape with a small wiring
harness at one end, with another casting that attaches to the throttlebody.
There are two 5/16th bolts holding the valve to the throttlebody.
Disconnect the harness with a small flathead screwdriver and unbolt the
valve. Check the gasket that attaches the valve to the throttlebody for
any damage or cracks, and replace if necessary.
With the valve in your hand, generously spray light oil such as WD-40,
or a throttlebody/carb cleaner in the two bores of the valve. Shake the
valve around to ensure the cleaner is moving freely in the bore. If
possible, get a length of fuzzy pipe cleaner and use it to scrub the
bores to a shine.
Shake the valve until most of the fluid is expelled. Repeat the above
procedure if the expelled fluid is extremely dirty. Reattach the gasket,
the valve and its wiring harness. You should see a dramatic difference
in the idle control of the car.
Did you try cleaning it, or did you replace it? In my experience, cleaning
them is a lesson in frustration- they may work for a few days or weeks, then
the problem returns, or the problem never really went away. For less than
$75, it can be replaced with a new Motorcraft one.
Go here to page 151:
Your car may have to relearn its idle.
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