Loctite 609 would be a better choice, IMO. 495 is just common super glue,
and would probably not be suitable for use on oil seals.
If the taper is greased, removal is
I agree with the "clean and dry". If you are worried about it loosening on
the shaft, you could always heat the sprocket in a pan of water before assy,
then immediately torque the nut down. A little 242 on the threads would keep
the nut from loosening.
The rubber O.D. seal should be a tight fit. No adhesive is needed. It will stay
and not leak. They do it all the time on motorcyles.
Again, nothing is needed. Don't grease. the keyway and taper will hold the
sprocket in place. It is the same principle used on the flywheel of mowers.
Light pressure and a rap with a hammer should separate them as needed.
I would clean the parts and then add a thin layer of grease. Then torque
the bolt to specs. Even with gease, you will need a puller to get the
sprocket off. Because it is a tapered press fit the sprocket will still
move a bit up the taper.
I don't have an answer for the specific application, but from a
design/engineering standpoint, I would follow the written procedure as
far as grease or no grease. I say that because, unless there is a
positive stop (a step), the stresses on a tapered fit will go up maybe
an order of magnitude or more for the same bolt/nut torque, possibly
stretching or breaking the sprocket if it was not designted for that
stress (i.e., if it was designed assuming no grease).
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')
FYI....."cyanoacrylate" = Super Glue. while superglue bonds a lot of low
stress applications, I do not think that the brittle properties of that
adhesive will accomplish your desired task.
As far as I know the dry taper and the keyway is all you need. As long as
the keyway fits snug into the shaft, part of it's purpose is to prevent
Use the rubber coated ones and the Permatex to help hold it.
You will get galvanic action between the steel and aluminum with the
non-coated ones. That's why the OEM ones are rubber coated to prevent that
corrosion from happening. You don't want the cases to corrode and get pitted
in the seal area after time goes by.
A 2 stroke motor has retainer plates to hold the seals in as they have
pressurized bottom ends, not a problem with a vented 4 stroke crankcase.
"anything you say can & will be misquoted & used against you"
I suppose a seal with a slightly larger o.d. is not available? that
would be the ideal option. The seal ought to need to be pressed or
lightly hammered in to have any hope of reliable retention.
FWIW the standard practice for dealing with tapered-end rear axles
with separate hubs (commonly used on Studebaker, AMC and others) is to
install them clean and dry. They require a lot of force to separate
when torqued to spec, so no worries there. I have heard tell of
people lubing the tapers and subsequently splitting the cast iron
Use a thin coat of Permatex clear silicone sealer/adhesive:
It would hold bananas to ice-cream and seal them as well. I use it on cars
with problematic intake manifold front and rear seal leaks. A trick from
drag racing days, with angle cut heads, and no way to use the manifold
I hope this helps?
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