1985 K5 305CUI 4x4 TH700R4 NP208 3.73's Stock or OEM eq. axles/parts
I can't see how the rotor comes off? I meant to get on here earlier than
this, so I could get some posts and be able to do some work tomorrow.
Horribly sick, don't know if I'll be able to finish my brake job
tomorrow.... Looks like you might just have to take the hub off and then it
can slide off?
As some of you may have read in my other posts, that I hate Gorilla lug
nuts. Well I was able to get them off, but it took ALLOT of pounding, and I
had to torch one of the nuts out. So now I have 1 short stud, and the rotor
it is on is scored on the inside (facing the engine). Lucky it isn't one
problem on each side eh? Only have to R&R one rotor. But anyways, I think
this pounding might have hurt the seal at the end of the axle half shaft.
This let a good puddle form on the ground, and it all looks like it's coming
right from the end. I'm assuming for now I'll be just fine if I don't go
into 4x4 but I'd like to see if I can't get that fixed. Is that a DIY at
TIA for any help, I'm off to try to find the answers on the web....
Is it leaking differential lube (gear oil) or did you merely
overheat the hub seal and now have wheel bearing grease leaking
To replace the leaking wheel hub seal;
Remove caliper and support with a length of coat hanger.
Remove lock-out hub.
Remove outer hub lock nut (4 or 6 notched nut, need special
socket, but it can be done with a punch and hammer)
Remove lock ring (has a bunch of holes in it)
Remove inner lock nut (pay attention to the little pin that
protrudes from the face)
Yank rotor off as you would any other rotor/hub assembly
Clean and inspect wheel bearings, repack wheel bearings if they
are serviceable, install new hub seal.
Re-assemble in reverse order, adjust inner hub nut to factory
spaecs for proper preload
Install lock ring so theat the pin on the inner lock nut engages
one of the holes in the lock ring
Install outer lock ring and torque to spec
Install lock-out hub, caliper, pads etc
If the rotor is beyond service, knock out all wheel studs and
replace with new rotor and new studs if rotor is sold separate
from hub, otherwise replace rotor/hub as an assembly.
Do not re-use wheel studs once they have been removed.
If the leak is in fact differential oil, strip everything down
(as above) to the point where the rotor and hub are off and you
have a bare spindle, there are six bolts (capscrews) that hold
the spindle to the steering knuckle,
Remove the six bolts
Now you have two choices;
Rent or borrow the proper slide hammer and adaptor that screws
onto the end of the spindle and start whacking away until the
spindle comes off.
The backyard way when a slide hammer isn't available is to
re-install the two wheel bearing nuts (to protect the spindle
threads) and then wrap the hell out of everything with duct tape
(again to protect the spindle threads), then using a soft faced
mallet (the bigger the better) hit the spindle left, right, up,
down and keep repeating until the spindle is loose (it's just
like breaking loose a rusted brake drum except this will be
worse) Once you have the spindle off, you'll be sweating so much
that you won't notice the outside temperatures.
Once the spindle is off, you can pull (slide) the front drive
axle shaft and u-joint out, the oil seal resides just inside
where the u-joint was. Now's a good time to replace the u-joint
Clean the area where the new seal will go and clean the rust that
made the spindle stubborn to come off, you can install the new
seal with a length of exhaust pipe of suitable length of a
slightly smaller outside diameter than the seal OD, drive it in
straight and true and don't nick the rubber
Assembly is the reverse of removal, I'd Loc-tite the six spindle
bolts though (blue, not red).
Shouldn't take you more than an hour + .3 if you replace the
While it is possible that the hub bearings might have been heated up, this
fluid is definitely coming from the end of the axle before the 'knuckle'
(hinge portion) and before the u-joint. There was a slight amount on the
tire (that's how I noticed it) and then I found about a 8" round splotch of
brown snow 2" deep. So quite a bit... I haven't checked the diff fluid level
but AFAIK if I don't drive the running gear, via the wheels or the t-case, I
should be just fine? Right now I am REALLY sick, and I'm going to need this
truck Monday/Tuesday (whenever I can drag my ass off the couch/bed/et all).
I thought that a weekend would have been good for all of this, but I didn't
plan on getting ill.... Basically planning on throwing it back together with
good lug nuts, and actually having a whole weekend to work on this, instead
of spending about 8 hours getting 1 wheel off.
Is the axle tube seal on the GM 10 bolt in a different spot than the Dana
44? I've never actually replaced the axle tube seals, but when I yanked the
axles to replace U-joints, the axle was 'exposed' (rusted and crusted and
muddy) all the way until about 2" before the splines, leading me to believe
that the axle tube seal is on that end....and it's been so long since I blew
up my 10 bolt and replaced it that I don't remember what the axles on it
KJ's sick....he's ruint his axle seals..or most likely jest melted his
he needs to know how to get his rotors off.
(read the thread....if you're that interested....
it's too dang long to keep posting...)
don't go out in 14 degree weather turning that
cold into the flue.......
Cut and paste Neils proceedure to a file you
can retrieve later on.
Stick your wheels back on and go to work, wait till the weather warms
and your feeling better. If it's not pouring all the lube out and
the gears ain't grinding.....don't sweat it....
wait for better weather.
~is glad to see KJ didn't put the whole truck
on ma's kitchen table....~
Nice to see ya back. I can imagine the embarrassment of wastin all that
Your advice pretty much matches up with what I was plannin on doin'
Heres a link for some info on my truck, there are some pictures of the front
passenger side hub/knuckle/etc.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.