AC doesn't get cold so I'm thinking it needs refridgerant, however I'm lost >>
in all the hoses and wires. HELP!
If you can find the compressor it is probably the schrader valve on the
narrower of the two refrigerent lines coming out.
But don't even bother because your system is most likely an R-12
system, a Class II refridgerant which you cannot purchase on your own
without an EPA certification.
If you add R-134A you will contaminate your system by mixing
refridgerants, which use different oils, not to mention the recovery
equipment of the poor sucker at the shop who winds up pumping the
system down when it fails again.
I don't know what R12 goes for these days but for an 87 Ford it isn't
worth the recovery, leak testing, parts replacement and recharge.
You're looking at probably a $500 to $800 repair bill at a shop
equipped to handle this job.
Besides what sleepdog just said, those years had a problem with the "O"
rings at the quick-connect fittings. They would decompose and leak. Some
actually blew out making quite a noise, a puff of smoke, and spewing all
that expensive R-12 out. If memory serves me, the low side valve is smaller
than the high side that year... but I fear you will be wasting whatever you
put in if you don't repair the "O" rings...
I think even the basic shop manuals show A/C, maybe one of those service
CD's they have at AutoZone. I have seen many helpful web pages over the
years, too. Google automotive A/C repair, see what you find.
****>>> Oh, don't open the system if you don't have a vacuum pump. As soon
as air gets in (and the moisture that's in it) the system becomes
contaminated. If you decide to do it, you will need to work fast and vacuum
it down ASAP. Then you can refill.
You can still buy it, but they can't make anymore or import it, so as
the stocks are depleted, the price with continue to soar. My neighbor
just had to have his home central air refilled due to a leak.... three
Older vehicles require a conversion kit. For my transAM, GM quoted
about $1,000. The service manager suggested I'd be better off to pay
the higher price for the R12 if it went down, and then start looking
for a new car.
Newer vehicles which have the R12, "I was told", don't need the
conversion parts (what the cutoff year is, I do not know).
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.
"When the time comes to lay down my life for my country,
I do not cower from this responsibility. I welcome it."
-JFK Inaugural Address
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