Noticed all of a sudden after making a pass on the freeway. Pressure gage was fine for a few min's then proceeded to drop to zero and just flack out. I stop and turn off the motor for 20 sec and problem gone. So I thought. New filter/oil/ sender is still does it. High RPMs initiate the issue. Mech gage showed 40 PSI when warm, drops slowly to
Bad ground on the gauge or intermittent connection to the gauge? Keep in mind the Ford oil pressure "gauge" is a glorified idiot light, it reads the same value whether it has 5psi or 50.
Has anyone figured out how to make the thing actually work like a real gauge? I know there was a fix for the F150s in years past, but i've been unable to find anything similar for the "new" (1999+) SuperDuty trucks.
I seem to remember seeing a writeup where a sender is installed ( the pressure switch has to remain for its signal input to the ECM) and a resistor is placed inline to the gauge from the new sender, but that was a while ago.
"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
That sounds awefully familiar as the F150 fix.. Any chance you remember where you may have seen that info?
Not here....Its just a dumb switch...no ecm connection. Ill plum a mech gage in and compare it to specs........I have not had an issue for a few days so I am hopefull it was just a transiant sticky bypass valve. We will see.
The OTHER Kev> >
It's been years, sorry.
"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
Have you verified that with a FSM? Seems like the ECM would want to know that there is oil pressure, though not necessarily the exact PSI.
Got the manual. Its a single wire pressure switch. Im still a bit perplexed that I had low pressure on the mech gage. It seemed to clear up and havent been able to duplicate it since. I did install a mech gage in line with the sender and right now all pressures are well within normal ranges at idle, 2k and 3k. Sticky relief valve? I have been told only to use motocraft filter etc......haven't tried that yet. Ill keep my eye o it a while.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
Sticky relief valve, possible. As to Motorcraft filters, there is nothing wrong with them, stay away from Fram, and the bargain basement filters. Wix is a good brand, Purlolator ok. Questions, where on the block is the oil pressure sending unit located?, and I might have missed the next, what oil are you using? I prefer a good quality mechanical oil pressure gauge, over an electric one. Manufactures like the electric ones, I think, because they can never leak oil into the passenger compartment, and installation on the assembly line is faster.
Whitelightning
Where does the wire go?
THere was a time when Fram filter were not the best choice (over 20 years ago) but they make a good filter today and I have run several vehicles well past 200K miles on them. Even the most expensive oil filter out there will not mkae up for infrequent oil changes as regual oil change with quality libe is the key to long life rather than try to sqeak a little more life out of oil with a high dollar filter.
----------------- The SnoMan
Ever since Fram was acquired by Allied Signal their quality went down. There's no way I'll put a Fram on my vehicles again.
On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 13:21:42 +0000, SnoMan rearranged some electrons to form:
On my old truck (which I no longer have) switching from a Fram filter to Purolator quieted the valve train on start-up... the anti drainback valves in Fram filters are worthless.
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