E-150 Questions
First off I want to thank Steve Barker and Whitelightning,
The first alignment shop told me to junk the van, that it had at least a bent I-beam and probably bent frame. [they were happy to attempt to balance a couple of bent rims and charge me more than the garage that did fix it]
The second aligned it, performed the "inside out" tire rotation and mounted and balanced the tires.
Now I only have to deal with the body work. Basically multiple accidents, a bad windshield install and half a million miles leaves me with a body that leaks and is a mess. I have located two shops that will replace the body using my frame and mechanical bits. Before you all call me crazy, and ask why I would bother...
This is a 1978, long wheel base E-150 with a 351W , 4 speed, dual tanks, full gauges, and a 3.5 to 1, 9 inch rear end.
Mine runs perfectly, and is probably the most dependable and durable econoline that ford has ever made, or will ever make. I have only seen one other ford van like it and it was totaled and striped at a salvage yard in 1992. If I found another one for sale in good condition, I would buy it. It is not required to have a catalytic converter, air pump, etc. I am required to have all stock pollution control devices in working order here in Portland, Oregon, even though I only drive it about 3000 miles a year as a work truck. [fortunately DEQ and DMV will treat a newer body on an older frame as an older van]
My local ford dealer has told me that any econoline body from 76-91 will fit. They could not tell me which year is the best to use however.
Which years did not have roof leaks?
Which years had the most and best galvanized sheet metal?
Am I correct in assuming that the sliding door is less reliable than barn doors?
Do any of you have a rust free cargo body in the northwest?
If I want to lower the gearing to 4 to 1 is there a particular drive train that typically has this ratio?
Did any of the vans typically have limited slip rear ends?
An I right to assume that the only under hood wiring need to make the engine run is power to the:
internally regulated alternator, carburetor choke heater, and electronic ignition module?
If this is the case, can I use a newer body and wiring harness, with my own cabling for the above mentioned items and gauges? [I am assuming that the engine management circuits of newer vans are not shared with anything vital, and can be left in place, unpowered and not connected]
Many thanks David