Looking at eBay, Google newsgroups, and Haynes Repair Manual on the
best buy for fixing a high output 108 Amp optional OEM alternator for
an 1984 Buick Century Limited V6-231 3.8l with fuel injection and A/C.
The Delco Remy 1-05-45P factory alternator lasted 110K mi over 19
years and had a failure due to a low 10-12v output. The failure showed
by discharging the battery but the idiot light was off or barely
glowed. A low charging alternator causes a on-the-road problem because
the electric fuel pump doesn't work with a dying battery.
Had replaced the OEM fuel pump and 3+ yr old Sears DieHard Gold
battery about 2-3 weeks earlier. The old battery had low reserve
capacity. When replacing the battery with a new Sears DieHard Silver,
upon full overnight recharge, the battery lasts about 2 days with
daylight driving, but only about 2-3 hours of driving with the
headlights on. When near the end of the battery discharge curve, the
electronic dash display digit segments start to glow dimly and
erratically. You have about 1-4 minutes to get off the road before the
Found that the best used price was $20 + shipping on eBay; but the
Seller did not know the model or amp output. I believe that a 78 Amp
alternator is OEM standard. Found a 98 Amp recycled one at local junk
yard for $45 + $5 core. A 98 Amp remfgrd one at Checker Auto parts was
$80 + $5 core; and same at $120 with "lifetime" warranty.
Also found a Victory Lap Alternator Repair Kit, Model GMA-01, for $14
at Mills Fleet Farm Superstore (Wisc hqtrd). The kit contained the
regulator, diode trio, 3 sets of brushes and springs of different
lengths (0.5, 0.65, 0.75"), and a main ball bearing (unused). The kit
also can rebuild alternators for 1968-87 Chevy, Olds, Pontiac,
Cadillac, and GMC trucks (AMC + Jeep too). The kit does not include
the diode bridge assy (with heat sink fins), capacitor, or wire wound
resistor. Decided to do a kit rebuild.
Using the Haynes manual p5-10, it took about an hour to disassemble,
replace parts, and reassemble. Needed 6 and 8mm sockets for bolts. The
old brushes appeared good but worn too short 0.35-.45". Used the
longest brushes set (2 @ 0.75") as could see lots of carbon black
stains on the external case of alternator. Added synthetic grease to
rear needle bearings. Then took rebuilt alternator to a Checker Auto
parts store for their free functional alternator / battery checker.
Passed at 14-15 volt output. Reinstalled with new v-fan belt with 13mm
sockets. Make sure that the field connector has the locking tab facing
the front pulley, matching the notch in the case.
On another alternator, I reversed the stator / field connector with
battery connected and it sparked and probably blew the regulator.
Noticed that the Victory Lap instructions and Haynes manual did not
have a schematic of the charging alternator circuit and color coded
wires (XXX is left facing pulley) which could have prevented this
See better explaination in JE Duffy's Modern Auto Technol, p382
Victory Lap, CPI Parts Div, POBox 678, West Concord, MN 55985, (800)
Good luck on your own rebuild job.
Regards, Phil, Minneapolis, Minn, SiliconTundra, USA