What engineer would spec a component with such fragile operating characteristics ?
Who would approve it ?
What engineer would spec a component with such fragile operating characteristics ?
Who would approve it ?
Message from written on 2/4/2006 2:05 PM:
Especially since the low fuel situation would not be that uncommon. Most everyone I know runs a day or two past when the fuel light comes on. Sometimes I run 40-60 miles past.
No different than running the engine low on oil or coolant. Service life will be shortened when operating requirements are not met.
That's why the low fuel light is a amber light and the gas gauge E zone is red. Your supposed to keep ALL the vehicles fluids above the minimum, just like oil and coolant.
Message from Repairman written on 2/4/2006 4:18 PM:
Well then the manuals of my vehicles have a serious omission.
One who gets paid based on how cheaply a component can be manufactured and not on how long it will last.
Management. The general principle with most companies seems to be that if the component will last past the new car warranty period it is good enough.
John
Why then is this never stated in the owner's manuals or during the pre-delivery customer instruction period ?????
Excuse me but if the pump is IN the tank how does changing a fuel filter that is after the tank affect the fuel pump?
The GM fuel pump is lubed and cooled by fuel in tank. Running it low a lot will greatly shorten its life. As far as not stating it in manual, it could hurt sales to say so and then there is the dealer revenue for repairing it too so they are not going to tell you. I have a 89 burb that I have had since new and still has original pump as I never run it low.
Likewise I have a '94 Silverado that I don't let get below 1/4 tank. In fact - that's a standing principle in my household. Fill 'em up when they hit 1/4 tank. When you live in winter climates, you quickly learn about such things as ice in the fuel lines. All tanks have water in them as a result of condensation and it has just been a long standing practice among savvy people not to let the tank get below 1/4. In the summer time it can be a simple water problem - no ice to contend with. Some water is fine for combustion, but not the kind of water content you can be pulling up from the bottom of the tank. Then, there's the sediment issues. All tanks have sediment. Again - let a tank get low and you agitate the sediment much more than if you keep it up a bit. Yes - this does apply even though the pump feeds from the bottom.
I did replace the fuel pump in my Silverado, but only because I had to replace the gas tank at a little over 110,000 miles. NY corrosion. Figured as long as I had it down, I'd go all the way. My factory pump showed no signs of weakening (they never do), and I noticed no difference in performance with the new one, so I'm sure my factory pump was outputting just fine. I just didn't want to have to get underneath the truck again.
Back pressure. Pump is working overtime trying to force fuel through a plugged / restricted filter.
Does there have to be a warning or a disclaimer for everything? Common sense dictates keeping gas in a gas tank just like keeping oil in a crankcase. Then again there is no minimum intelligence test for car ownership hence the use of idiot lights for every frickin fluid in a vehicle nowadays including the gas tank and the gas cap.
"If you run out of gas.... we will destroy engine components" ????? ha...hahahahahaha....
BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Clogged, and over heating, from low fuel.
Yeah, I thought of that immediately after posting it almost. Thanks anyway though.
Because GM orders cheap ones. I've never had a problem with Chryslers fuel pumps, even though I don't clean them before 80K miles.
I agree. I know know because my feul pump died in the middle of the highway with my family stranded for 5 hours. This is crap. Stop making excuses for GM!
First few pumps were dont by dealership until I lost the receipt and got sick of their high prices. They my regular mechanic did the last few which I bought aftermarket. OEM did not show any better performance. and the first one blew a few thousand miles out of factory warranty.
There is something else at play here. What you describe is truly an anomaly. I'm no particular fan of GM, or Ford for that matter, but I've yet to replace any fuel pump, in tank or external, a second time after using an OEM replacement in either brand. YMMV (and apparently does) FWIW
Man - this is a crazy scenario - but I'm not saying I don't believe it. Others posted after my initial shock statement, that some vehicles seem to eat fuel pumps. I think after the second one I'd probably be looking at possible things like input voltage levels, grounding, etc. You know - the stuff that typically eats electric motors. Is this fuel pump different than all other GM fuel pumps? I ask because it almost seems that it can't be. The aftermarket is pretty good at identifying junk designs by the manufacturers and coming out with a product that is genuinely superior, but your aftermarket experience doesn't reflect this. This leads me to suspect problems in the truck and not so much with the fuel pump.
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