Ball Joint Stud/Castle Nut "Froze"

"TeGGeR®" wrote

Oh, I get it now. I was focused on cutoff wheels (for my air die grinder) and forgot about the grinding wheels I can use with it as well.

Michael, "school of hard knocks" is my middle name when it comes to my car's repairs.

Oh well. It's always easier the next time.

Reply to
Elle
Loading thread data ...

///snipped for brevity///

Are you sure? Wouldn't measuring from the wheel well to the center of the wheel also introduce the tire as a variable? The tire would determine, in part, the height of the center of the wheel, wouldn't it?

I would think that once you had the car level with the ground as you outline above, one should measure from the top of the shims to the center of the wheel. Any difference between the two tires of interest could then be eliminated by adjusting air pressure until the centers were equal. Then a measurement from the wheel well to the center of each wheel would disclose any difference in ride height. Perhaps I didn't grasp the whole of your procedure....

Dave D

Reply to
Dave and Trudy

"Dave and Trudy" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.acsalaska.net:

Yes,you could easily have variation in the levelness of the ground under the car,that you would not be able to see without a long construction level or other non-eyeball means. 1/2 inch of slope or variation would not be easily seen.

No.the spring is going to push the axle out X distance,depending on the weight on that side of the car.The diameter of the tire will only determine how far the axle is above the ground,not how far the spring pushes against the car's weight.

Now I'm gonna go out and measure my Integra..... 8-)

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Yes there is, I did it on my 98 civic. You have to be really careful when pressing the BJ in, as the control arm is made of fairly thin steel.

I bought the BJ from NAPA. Nobody else offered it.

t

Jim Yanik wrote:

Reply to
loewent via CarKB.com

Happily, either the effects of PB Blaster or driving a little with the car (carefully) took their toll. The remains of the castle nut came off within ten minutes with just a little tapping with my new chisel. The threads seemed to be in good repair, but I chased them with a new die (only $4 for the 12 mm, 1.25 mm pitch one at NAPA) to be safe.

The ball joint separated so easily probably a good blow with a small ball peen hammer would have been sufficient. I suppose the taper was really lubed up, or else the driving around loosened everything in, I confess, a seriously risky way.

The boot was a bit dried out and beat up from the brake cleaner. I applied PB Blaster, for now, since it's said to restore rubber. Probably have to replace it soon after the rough treatment it saw in the last couple of days.

I note I also priced new lower ball joints at NAPA today. These were part of my backup plan.They had two types, one with a lifetime warranty, one without. One $27, one $52, IIRC.

Forward to full control arm removal, then bushing replacement. More update on this in another thread.

Reply to
Elle

"loewent via CarKB.com" wrote in news:607e2b1e61e46@uwe:

THANKS !!

Reply to
Jim Yanik

"loewent via CarKB.com" wrote in news:607e2b1e61e46@uwe:

I forgot to ask;did you press it in yourself? How did you do it? Removal of the old one?

Reply to
Jim Yanik

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.