i think my joint is damaged on the wheel, but not sure

A rebuilt drive shaft, CV shaft, or whatever you choose to call it will come with new boots installed, and with a new locknut for the shaft end.

I just checked the otherside of my car and now noticed that the other boot has the same problem. It appears that when the remove had the CV joints replaced, that the idiots didn't change the boots, it makes no sense at all, but its true. For a car that's 13 years old, you would expect that they would, but I guess they are lazy.

I stopped at a place today, and the guy said I should be good. He'll replace the boots for just $50+ parts. How does that sound?

Thanks

This means 1 of 2 things. Either the person who sold you the car is full of shit and never replaced the CV shafts, or they replaced them with very poor quality replacement axles.

You can't change the driveshafts (or CV Shafts, or Half Shafts, they are all the same part called different things!) without doing the CV boots. It just wouldn't happen. They are part of the shaft!

And you don't seem to be listening. Your boots are not just cracked, they are TOAST. And you can't even tell us how long they have been like that for. THIS MEANS that you need to replace the driveshafts. PERIOD.

You can spend you $50+ parts (probably will end up being about $100), but the cv joints will inevitably start clicking in the not to distant future, indicating that they are shot too. Now your back to your shop, and unloading another $200-350.

Waste your money if you want (on just the boots) but don't come crying when your in worse shape soon.

Why not take a look at a manual to see how important these parts actually are? A little education can be a good thing.

m>I just checked the otherside of my car and now noticed that the other

How much for the parts?

I have never heard of boots going bad within a year, and certainly not both sides. It makes no sense at all to replace only the CV joints and not the boots, because torn boots are pretty much the only reason for a CV joint to go bad. Something is very wrong... those CV joints were not changed last year.

I have had boots go out in about 5 years in Phoenix, where the heat is absolutely brutal, but 10 years is a more typical life span. Perhaps taking the car to the shop that supposedly performed the service (if you have the receipts or can get them) will get you some satisfaction. It's a cheap thing to try. Maybe an approach like you saw those things obvously bad and wanted to know how much to get it fixed and how long the new ones should last, then bring out the receipts.

Mike

The OP is in a tight financial bind at the moment (gleaned from an earlier post) so going the split-boot route makes sense if he has no recourse. It is a case where "pay me later" is a lot better than "pay me now." Other than that, I completely agree with you - replacement axle shafts is the way to go.

Mike

It's obvious that the woman was ripped off. So froget about what was doen and what was not.

How much would the part be? You really should consider replacing the whole thing, i.e CV shaft (see the link below) by buying a rebuilt one as someone suggested in this thread.

I did google search Read at

practically forever.

Really? I didn't know that. Why is that the case?

When I got my old Nissan (got rid of it in 1997) from my sister in 1995

- it was 87 model - she told me about the axel problem. The noise was small and I ignored it and drove it until in mid 1996 when the noise got louder. I changed the axel then. I put a new one at Mineke (came with warranty though but on an old car, probably not worth spending that much) because I didn't know that about rebuild one.

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

It keeps water to a minimum in your tank. Water in your tank gets into the lines, causing rust. That water and rust ends up in your fuel filter, and then the water gets in the system downstream from the filter, which means the regulator and injectors.

No water, no rust. No water, no frozen fuel lines in the winter, no stuck fuel regulators.

Also, letting the tank run down allows the fuel pickup to suck up crud from the bottom of the tank. Most of that is caught by the bag filter on the fuel pickup, but each time you drive, a few more particles sneak through, eventually being trapped by the fuel filter. If the tank is kept full, the pickup is drawing fuel from well above the bottom of the tank, so the chance of picking up crud is greatly minimized.

My tank is *never* allowed to sit overnight with less than 3/4 of a tank. It's usually filled up all the way before I park for the night.

I am getting a new car tomorrow. I'll do the same.

Thanks for the info and tips.