Re: What is the problem?

> For about a week or so, I had noticed a scratching sort of noise coming

>> from somewhere under the hood, but was unable to pin-point its location. >> There were no changes in engine performance or behavior. One morning, I >> was sitting at a stoplight, the engine stumbled very hard, and almost cut >> off. The Check-Engine light came on, and idle RPM level returned to >> normal. (I also noticed the scratching noise had stopped) Upon trying >> to accelerate, I noticed the car would not rev any higher than 3,500RPMs. >> (This is a classic symptom of the auxillary fuel injector not working) I >> checked the ECU and the LED was blinking 16 times, which corresponds to >> the "Fuel Injector or Fuel Injector Circuit". I called a few mechanics >> that were supposed to be "Honda specialists" and they all told me to >> change the throttle body because the Throttle Position Sensor had gone >> bad and that is what was causing the Check Engine light to come on and >> making the Fuel Injector stop working. I bought a throttle body from >> Beaver's Honda (junk yard) for $65 and changed it myself. Now, when I >> crank it up, it idles at almost 2,000RPMs. The idle adjuster screw is >> all the way out, so that's not causing the high idle speed. When the >> accelerator is pressed, I can hear the engine suck in a lot of air, but >> instead of revving up, it bogs down, and then back-fires through the >> intake. Aside from changing the throttle body, I have not changed any >> other parts. >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Jonathan > > you don't say age/model of honda, so using my magical mind reading powers > & the fact that you refer to code 16, i'll conclude it's a manifestation > of a typical symptom of the main relay giving out on a 88-91 civic - which > they do all the time. it may indeed be an injector, but gotta tell ya, > it's real rare for honda injectors to fail. you can therefore conclude > that code 16 is a wild goose chase. [needs to be fixed, but not a cause > of this problem.] throttle position sensor is a crock too. that gives > code 8, iirc, and that'll only affect you at lower revs where the throttle > usually sits at highway speed, not idling at a stop light. > > much more common cause of "bogging down" is a problem with the tandem > valve. the auxiliary injector only usually operates for acceleration > enrichment. the engine will idle perfectly as well as run at high rpm > with the auxiliary injector disconnected - if the tandem valve opens > properly. take the top off & look down the throttle body, with the engine > running. then blip the throttle. you can see the auxiliary squirt if > it's working. you'll see if the tandem valve is operating too. if the > tv's not acting snappily, check the vacuum hoses, and the tandem valve > diaphragm for leaks. also check the brake power servo for vacuum leaks - > a sudden surge of excess air kills idling engines easily. > > excess idle speed now you've changed the throttle body? again, check for > vacuum leaks. check the idle air control circuit too. should hear the > servo click as you disconnect the power leads.

Any idea what could have been making that scratching noise? Like I said, the scratching noise stopped immediately when the problem started.

Thanx for your input, I'll check the main relay & for vacuum leaks.

Jonathan

Reply to
K-town
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what /sort/ of scratching noise? from where? have you checked the tandem valve operation yet?

Reply to
jim beam

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