ecu self checking interval? 00 accent

It depends on the test that needs to be run. Some checks (such as proper circuit resistance) are checked immediately on start-up and continuously while the engine is running. Others (such as misfire monitoring) occur anytime the vehicle is running. Performance tests of the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter usually require driving at certain speeds under certain operating conditions for certain periods of time.

O2 sensors, catalytic convertor have any idea at what speeds under what conditions and for how long? it would really be a help to know this when trying to get a smog check after the battery has been disconnected for overseas shipment. this causes the ecu to reset (smog check rejected) till when(?) the car passes emissions but will not pass until ecu "self diagnosis" you would think that there is a way for the ecu to force self diagnosis or that there would be some definite method of producing it. other than "just driving it"

Unfortunately, I don't have access to the specific part(s) of the drive cycle which must occur for the oxygen sensors to complete their testing. Hyundai has now posted the entire drive cycle on

I cannot vouch for it's accuracy, and in fact I find it suspect since it's claimed to be for all models except those with the Delphi engine management system. CARB (California Air Resources Board) or BAR (Bureau of Automobile Repair) may be able to get you more detailed information. That said, try not to wreck in attempting to perform the drive cycle.

1. Fuel level greater than 15%.
2. Start with coolant between 0 and 40 Celsius.
3. Start the car and let idle in park/neutral for five minutes.
4. Accelerate to 50 MPH (about 15 sec).
5. Maintain 50 MPH for 8 minutes.
6. Slow to a stop, taking approximately 15 sec.
7. Idle in park/neutral for 15 minutes.
8. Accelerate to 55 MPH (about 15 sec).
9. Drive at 55 MPH for 1 minute.
10. Slow to a stop, taking about 15 sec.
11. Idle in drive for one minute.
12. Accelerate to 55 MPH (about 15 sec).
13. Drive at 55 MPH for 1 minute.
14. Slow to a stop, taking about 15 sec.
15. Idle in drive for one minute.
16. Accelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec.)
17. Drive at 40 MPH for 1 minute.
18. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec.)
19. Drive at 50 MPH for 5 seconds.
20. Decelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec.)
21. Drive at 40 MPH for 1 minute.
22. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec.)
23. Drive at 50 MPH for 5 sec.
24. Decelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec.)
25. Drive at 40 MPH for one minute.
26. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec).
27. Drive at 50 MPH for 5 seconds.
28. Decelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec).
29. Drive at 40 MPH for 1 minute.
30. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec).
31. Drive at 50 MPH for 5 seconds.
32. Decelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec).
33. Drive at 40 MPH for 1 minute.
34. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec).
35. Drive at 50 MPH for 5 seconds.
36. Decelerate to 40 MPH (15 sec).
37. Drive at 40 MPH for 1 minute.
38. Accelerate to 50 MPH (15 sec).
39. Drive at 50 MPH for five seconds.
40. Decelerate to a stop (15 sec).
41. Idle in drive for one minute.

Hyundai Tech you are the coolest of all techs of all time. thanks for your wisdom, outstanding dude. really appreciate it.

Most of the newer OBD II diagnostic code readers will inquire of each monitor to determine if its ran (ready) or hasn't ran (not ready). If the guys at Auto zone knows how to do this with their scanner, they should be able to do it. I have a scanner I bought a harbor freight for $50 that does it. Its the new CAN model. No that's not short for Canada. BTW, that's all the newer smog testing centers do on the new cars now days, No DTC codes, all monitors ran - PASSED. No Dyno, no exhaust probe required.

I think the OP is looking to make the tests run, not check their results. Except for the evap test, driving the vehicle under the specified conditions is the only way for the tests to run.

You are correct, I got sidetracked when he mentioned not passing smog test. But knowing if the monitors have ran will save you the time/expense of having the emission test done too quickly after having work done. I'm normally pretty smart on these things, but I got blindsided by it. You would think that the shop/tech would mentioned to you the ramifications of clearing the codes.

Yes, I did clear the codes before smog check to make the ecu light go out, and I thought it was a clever idea. But low and behold, I was caught by the smog check computer. Then i drove 50 miles and we checked the ECU monitor finding that catalytic, evaporator, oxygen had not completed testing. (all others had completed) thats when I asked for specifics about how to make the ecu complete its testing results. then after driving as instructed by hyundaitech (see above) the light came on again. (crap) so that narrowed it down, after 75,000 miles the catalytic convertor is clogged. this may not happen on all accents but in Hawaii we had really crappy gasoline, which is not formulated to EPA requirements (hence) the clog syndrome. then I began searching for a new convertor (see my post in this newsgroup: Hyundai accent catalytic, where to buy?) because the dealer sells it for $827. after much searching I found an OEM OBII original new one for $308.00. It just goes to show ya, you may not need to pay thru the nose to buy parts from the dealer, if you look hard enough. But this took a lot of looking.