I said it wouldn't hurt. I listened to the sound file and didn't hear
anything really. So my advice is to provide a better sound file or
take it somebody who can figure it out.
Never heard a noise that can't be located pretty quickly.
For lower speed stuff running alongside the car can
help pin it down quick.
I like the recorder idea. Might tape it to different parts of the
suspension and the louder it gets the closer you are.
Or a good front end man and a rack might tell the tale real fast.
But I have absolutely no idea what the noise sounds like so I
can't recommend anything beyond what I said.
You need to turn it up and listen close at the times I mentioned. It's
fast clicking noise. I know, there's a lot of normal noise (engine
road sound, etc.) in front of it. It's easier to hear when you're
really in the
car than in the recording.
I suppose, but these hubcaps have big holes in them, so I'm not sure
could get caught in there, move around a lot, and not come out.
Furthermore, there is
more reason to believe this is not a hubcap problem (and so this test
would just be a
waste): sometimes I've heard the sound when the car is not moving, but
it happens while idling, there may be, though I'm not sure, a
correlation with putting it
into/out of gear, for example shifting to/from park. And it doesn't
when it's moving either, just episodically. When it occurs with the
shifting it's only like
I think 1, 2, maybe 3 clicks (but they sound just the same and have
I'm thinking it's a sticky caliper. Just did another set of rear discs
on a GM with STUCK glides.
Anyone have a better lube for them? The stuff I'm using now is a
silicone based grease made for the pins but it still doesn't last that long.
The current method is to clean (or replace them if pitted) the pins. use
a dowel to clean out the bores (a .30 caliber gun brush works REAL well)
then solvent flush and air dry. Then a generous helping of lube and
install the pins. Then a light coat of sealer inside the boot to lock it
to the caliper mount and to the pin. I would think that water/air
wouldn't be getting in there but I still get a couple that stick.
I got some black stuff in little clear plastic tubes; can't remember
name...too lazy to dig through my *kit* but for giggles, couldn't you
just squeeze some silver-colored anti-seize into the pin guides? The
same stuff we use on spark plugs. Takes the heat, just can't say how
long it would stay where it should. Then in 30 days or so, see if you
still have play in the calipers...maybe use a screwdriver to test, but
remember the pads need to be compressed first. So have to remove
wheel and tire to do that. Just an idea if you've got the time.
Antiseize isn't a terrible thing to use on sealed slide parts, but it
isn't ideal or recommended for this application. It isn't quite the
lubricant that silicone/ceramic products are and it doesn't seal out,
shed or adhere in moisture as well.
On Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:28:34 -0700 (PDT), Toyota MDT in MO
Okay, thanks for the Tip, MTD. I'll keep using that brake grease that
I buy in little tubes then. I find one little tube will do two
calipers/anti-squeal shims. I would hate to go to all that trouble
only to find the pin slides *dry* from seepage or some such.
I don't know the specific setup you've got there, but if it's what I think
it is, then the rubber boots may be fitting too loosely (old), or the
grooves the boots sit in have corrosion in them.
On my car I've found Sil-Glyde to work the best for the pins, BUT it
depends on the cleanliness of the boot grooves, and the tightness of the
boots in those grooves. The rubber boots do expand with age, making them
fit more loosely, allowing water in.
There are a lot of good brake greases available. I'm currently using
a purple colored Permatex product (brush in cap style) that may
actually be relabelled Ceramlub. Its visible properties and
performance seem OK but it's too early to tell at this time. If you
are in NY, then you just have to suffer the consequences of nasty
weather and salt (if used). I would suggest on caliper bores that
aren't corroded, you don't brush them or their pins, but clean and dry
with solvent/swab/whatever. There's no reason to abraid the corrosion
resistant coating if it is still working. On corroded parts you have
to wire brush or replace. The rubber components are usually the
culprit when a pin gets corroded. If you replace them with the
typical aftermarket boot kit you will probably be in for more of the
same as they are often thin, distorted junk compared to OE. They
barely hold up here in mostly decent weather, I can't imagine crappy
boots standing a chance in the N.E.
Yep, upstate NY. Never heard of nasty weather here...;-) Salt? OH you
mean "corrosion accelerator"..
I currently use Permatex Ultra silicone. Seem to work OK but I wondered
if anyone had a better lube. Normally I just flush the bores with
solvent and dry them. Pins get cleaned and burnished or replaced if
pitted. If the seals are intact then I clean the grooves and apply a
thin coat of permatex sealer to hold them secure once installed. I see
the same thing with the aftermarket crap.
Use a fine wire wheel to get any crud off. Then clean the groove real well.
Then the pins get hooked to a mandrel (high tech - cut off bolt that
will thread into them) Then I use what is basically a flat knife steel
to smooth them out. Takes about 30 seconds to do each one. They are
I've been thinking about buying a couple new caliper mounts and seeing
if they can be bushed with a bronze or stainless sleeve.
*What* evidence? you didn't even try the only suggestion you've gotten.
Ok, take the car in to a mechanic and have him change the entire front
end. Cost you a couple of thousand, problably won't eliminate the sound,
will take at least a week without the car, but at least you won't have
spend 15 minutes removing the hubcaps and listening if the sound is gone.
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