Yes, no question that synthetics behave much better at high
temperatures. Even if they aren't more slippery than dino oil, they
maintain their slipperiness much better when the oil temps get above 300
degrees. I think that is pretty well known. I'm just not sure if they
have any real advantage in this regard at normal oil temps in the 180 to
I concur with HT. As an ex-mechanic, I really saw no difference in engine
longevity between the dino/syn oil bases.
Much like HT, I try to get all the life I can from my cars, and I have to
say that oil changes at the 3k mark here in hot/dusty AZ contributes to
engine life. My 92 Nissan Sentra had 248k miles on it (still kick myself for
selling it!) when I sold it off. No leaks, no oil burn, and still plenty of
performance from the DOHC 16 valve 4 cyl which was still getting 34 mpg. I
did replace the front main seal at 110k though.
I agree in COLD climates that syn oils may help at startup, but both of my
vehicles are garaged and really aren't exposed to cold climate.
On another group I belong to (Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager) this topic came
up and oh boy!!!!
General consensus was that if dino works for you, rock on. If you like syn,
rock on. However, all those telemarketing cats from the 90s (Slick 50, etc.)
are still settling lawsuits from all of their bs claims.
Just my .02...
Great group and HT, you rock!!
"HT for prez!"
In the cold North East (upstate NY), I've stuck with dino oil over the
years. My truck is a 94 Silverado with a 350 and it sits outside all year
long. Starts right up without a hitch every day, winter or summer. No
signs of problems with cold related oil thickening even in the coldest of
winter. I keep 5W30 in it all year long. I'm also a guy who keeps his
vehicles for over 200K
I've used synthetics since the late 70s and will never go back to dino
oil. The main reason is the much better winter starting. From a wear
perspective, I believe synthetic is better, but probably not enough to
be a reason to use it. It also tolerates high temperatures much better,
which is important for some engines in some climates.
I use both Mobil 1 and Syntec and run 5,000 mile changes when the
vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals
once past 100,000.
I stick with the manufacturers recommended viscosity range.
'and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles
and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.'
REPLY: Whats the purpose of going longer in duration as the mileage
increases past 100 k ?
In many vehicles I've owned the powertrain warranty ran at least 70,000
miles and the Hyundai is 100,000 and 10K exceeds the manufacturers
service interval for most vehicles. So the main reason is to avoid any
potential warranty excuses.
The other reason is that the value of the vehicle is pretty well down
after 100K and my risk tolerance is thus higher. Although, so far I've
not had a single vehicle of the 6 or so that I've done this with that
showed any signs of distress with 10K change intervals.
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