Use only what the owners manual recommends. Usually it's an API service grade,
something like SH, SI or SJ, (higher second letter is better) 10w-30 or 5w-30.
If the owners manual allows "synthetic" oils, then it will probably recommend
specific weights to use. The only time it makes sense to switch to expensive
oils is under "severe service" conditions, usually extreme hot or cold,
someplace like Yuma Arizona or northern Canada.
You don't need anything fancy or expensive. Not sure I'd use some
unknown generic brand but any reputable oil should be fine. Some say to
use synthetics which may improve the life of the engine. I've used
conventional oil and change it very 3,000 miles. Use of more expensive
oils is a personal thing and so opinions vary.
Two myths here: first, synthetic "fancy-expensive" oils do not cost
any more than the cheap stuff on any auto parts or X-mart shelf.
Second, someone else mentioned checking the owners manual concerning
use of synthetics. It's rare for an owners manual to even comment on
synthetics vs. petroleum (or parasynthetics, which are blends of the
two). All you need to be concerned with in that regard is whether it
has the latest API service rating as a previous response mentioned -
not whether it's synthetic or petroleum based.
As for cost, it simply isn't any more expensive to use a good
synthetic (and there are varying degrees of that stuff, too). I've
been using a particular brand (Amsoil - which I do not sell) since
1978, and don't change my oil MORE than every 25,000 miles (the filter
does get changed, and I use a depth-type filter, not a paper element
filter such as is usually found on auto parts store or "X"-Mart
shelves. When you don't change your oil for a year or more at a time,
vs. every 3000 miles, you're bringing the cost of overall lubrication
down to a virtually equal level - you just pay more for the
"expensive" synthetic up front, but then keep right on using it
through what would have been several more oil changes if you'd used
petroleum. I used to use oil sampling to keep myself comfortable that
everything was "OK" inside my engines with that extended drain
interval, but long ago (like almost 20 years ago) quit bothering. At
least with Amsoil, the company itself actually warrants the oil for
extended drain (check their literature for details - I am not
representing the company, just happen to be lifetime-sold on it).
At about 100,000, my Isuzu Hombre needed a new timing chain and some
expensive clutch work. Before I had the work done, I had my mechanic
check out the engine fundamentals to make sure it was really worth it.
The compression test came back within 5 pounds of each other for all
four cylindars, and was virtually within original specs. I was
frankly not surprised at all. And I still use almost no oil between
those 25,000 mile intervals (I'm perhaps down to about a quart low
when I finally do change).
In my roughly 25 years of using the stuff, I am entirely convinced I
couldn't be doing anything better for my vehicles. I haven't put a
quart of petroleum oil in any of my vehicles in that time, and don't
plan to again. Currently I'm now using 0W-30, after having used 5W30
since it came out. Before that, I was using the standard 10W-40.
Don't let the 0W scare you - at least with Amsoil (I don't know if
anyone else sells that viscosity only because I don't know what else
is out there anymore).
The superior lubrication and consequently lower operating temperatures
extend the life of engines, so for someone like me who tends to keep a
vehicle until it's just about ready for the junk yard, the cost
savings end up being enormous with the "fancy-expensive" synthetic I
use. And research backs that up.
Thats where many will disagree. Synthetics do last longer and don't
break down as easy. Thats why people extend the change intervals. But
synthetics do not get rid of combustion byproducts that end up in the
oil nor do they get rid of dirt. I change my oil every 3-5K no matter
what oil I use. If the oil comes out black rather than amber, then I
waited too long. Even if you do extend the change interval, you still
must change the filter earlier. Cars are expensive and trying to save a
few $'s on oil just doesn't make sense. Use the oil you prefer and
change it often.
Don't know, I just had an oil analysis performed on my Audi A4
(Castrol Syntec 0W30 - Made in Germany). The oil had 6970 miles on it
and according to the analysis, the oil can definitely go to 10000
miles without any problems.
If you are changing synthetic at 3000 miles, you are most certainly
draining out oil that is still good.
Use an oil like Mobil 1 5W40 (rebadged Delvac 1) and you can easily
goto at least 7500 miles if not 10000 miles.
For some light reading (used oil analysis, etc)...
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Something I've learned from reading many other's experiences. when
extending drain intervals, especially to the 25k region: you should
periodicaly test oil. Many variables... environmental, engine wear,
fuel(s) being used, etc... affect how fast the oil breaks down, build
up of harmful byproducts and engine wear particles as well as
depletion of essential additives.
Combine the expense and bother of periodic testing with the expense
and bother of filter changing and I don't see much of an advantage
over 3k oil/filter changes with dino.
Even so the other advantages of synthetics... the better cold flow and
high temp performance, wear resistance, etc. They really are superior
oils, especially in severe service applications. I just don't see a
cost advantage by trying to extend drain intervals if done properly.
On Fri, 14 May 2004 22:21:04 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You should really consider using the lighter weight Mobil 1 like 5w30. I'm not
sure if your car is, but many Isuzus with the 3.2 are suceptible to the valve
train noise that is really annoying once you get it. My 95.5 Rodeo got it and
I followed the TSB using 0w30 Mobil 1 and it instantly cured my problem. Since
then I have used Mobil 1 5w30 vs regular 10w30 I used before. My engine is
quieter than ever and I usually go about 5,000 between oil changes which helps
justify the extra cost. Sythetics keep the engine cleaner, and sludge is what
causes this valve ticking in some Isuzu engines due to narrow oil passages for
the valve train.
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