As far as projects go on the XJ40, replacing the shocks is a mid-range
effort. Make sure you have a set of sturdy jackstands and a decent set of
metric tools as well as a good set of spring compressors. You take the wheel
off, then simply unbolt the bottom of the shock assembly from the suspension
arm. Make a mark between the car and the flange holding the top of the
shock assembly so you will know how it re-aligns when you are ready to
re-assemble. I usually use a white or silver paint mark. Once the bottom
is loose then you have 4 12mm bolts holding it onto the top. Undo these as
well. If you still have the SLS shocks on the car, then that line needs to
be disconnected. You should now have the assembly free. It is sort of a
puzzle to get the assembly out from behind the brakes -- but it can be done.
If it gets aggravating and you can not get it out, the solution is to
disconnect the axle from the hub by removing the nut in the center of the
hub. This is a 24 or 27mm socket I believe. Also remove the caliper assembly
being held on with 2 17mm bolts from the back of the hub. Hang the caliper
up out of the way. The hub should now flip forward giving you enough room to
remove the shock assembly.
Now that the assembly is off, you need to remove the shock. As set of
spring compressors is a MUST here. These springs are strong and can cause
injury or worse if not controlled. Our local auto parts store rents the
compressors -- but they are a MUST. If you can not get the compressors you
need to have someone else do the job. Period!!!. If you do have access to
compressors then you need to compress the springs to the point that the
flange on top loosens. The top nut can now be removed. Once the nut is
removed, the entire assembly comes apart. REMEMBER the order it comes apart
for it has to go back that way. Remove the old fluid shock. Remove the
compressors from the old springs and compress the new spring. Using the new
spring and the new shock, reassemble the spring assembly in reverse order or
by following the directions in the kit. Once the assembly is securely
assembled and the flange nut is tight, undo the spring compressors and
remove them. Place the assembly back into the car -- aligning the paint
marks. Re-assemble the axle. DO NOT USE the original nut from the end of
the axle. Get a new self-locking nut. These original nuts are Helix nuts
and can not be re-used. They will seem tight -- but they will back off the
threads over a period of time. Once the assembly is complete, do the other
side the same way. On the Right side, there is a sensor with a rod from the
suspension arm to a switch. Remove the electrical connector to the switch.
Tie the cable off some where with cable ties.
Finally, you need to cap the valve under the bonnet that sends the fluid to
the old shocks. There are caps in the kit for this.
Once complete, the ride should be level with no more bounce. The entire
procedure should take you about 4 to 5 hours.
Webserve explained well, however there is a few other bits to be
In tyhe trunk compartment remove the trim panel (Behind spare)and find
the rear axle electrical connector. ( '92 black 8 wire, '93 white 8
Remove the following wires:
Pin 1 (Brown/ Blue)
Pin 2 (white /gray)
Pin 5 (yellow/brown)
Pin 6 (yellow /blue)
PIN 1 (Brown /Orange)
PIN 2 (White/Gray)
PIN 5 (Yellow/Orange)
PIN 6 (Yellow/Blue)
Tape up the wires. Becare ful that you dont remove the brake pad sensor
Done; replace trunk panel.
After you have removed the slef leveling assemblies (Shocks) you should
remove the crossover pipe from above rear subframe.
Find valve block, and disconnect rear suspension pipe from valve. Cap
valve with bleed screw (part no. CAC 8293) . After capping the valve
you should remove the pipe that leads back to the SLS.
Start car and look for any leaks.
Blake is correct. The electrics in the 1988 XJ40 are REALLY different
than for the 1990-1994 XJ40. Simply unplug the sensor wire on the right
side suspension arm. Most owners fill it with silicone eventually.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.