XJ40 rear suspension conversion

Hi, I'm sure this has been covered before, but I am new to the newsgroup. Can anybody tell me if the conversion from the self levelling shocks to a dry
setup, is possible to do at home,and what is needed? I would appreciate any help. Thanks,BTW the car in question is a 1988 XJ40 3.6 sovereign,Canadian car.
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Phil, As far as projects go on the XJ40, replacing the shocks is a mid-range effort. Make sure you have a set of sturdy jackstands and a decent set of metric tools as well as a good set of spring compressors. You take the wheel off, then simply unbolt the bottom of the shock assembly from the suspension arm. Make a mark between the car and the flange holding the top of the shock assembly so you will know how it re-aligns when you are ready to re-assemble. I usually use a white or silver paint mark. Once the bottom is loose then you have 4 12mm bolts holding it onto the top. Undo these as well. If you still have the SLS shocks on the car, then that line needs to be disconnected. You should now have the assembly free. It is sort of a puzzle to get the assembly out from behind the brakes -- but it can be done. If it gets aggravating and you can not get it out, the solution is to disconnect the axle from the hub by removing the nut in the center of the hub. This is a 24 or 27mm socket I believe. Also remove the caliper assembly being held on with 2 17mm bolts from the back of the hub. Hang the caliper up out of the way. The hub should now flip forward giving you enough room to remove the shock assembly. Now that the assembly is off, you need to remove the shock. As set of spring compressors is a MUST here. These springs are strong and can cause injury or worse if not controlled. Our local auto parts store rents the compressors -- but they are a MUST. If you can not get the compressors you need to have someone else do the job. Period!!!. If you do have access to compressors then you need to compress the springs to the point that the flange on top loosens. The top nut can now be removed. Once the nut is removed, the entire assembly comes apart. REMEMBER the order it comes apart for it has to go back that way. Remove the old fluid shock. Remove the compressors from the old springs and compress the new spring. Using the new spring and the new shock, reassemble the spring assembly in reverse order or by following the directions in the kit. Once the assembly is securely assembled and the flange nut is tight, undo the spring compressors and remove them. Place the assembly back into the car -- aligning the paint marks. Re-assemble the axle. DO NOT USE the original nut from the end of the axle. Get a new self-locking nut. These original nuts are Helix nuts and can not be re-used. They will seem tight -- but they will back off the threads over a period of time. Once the assembly is complete, do the other side the same way. On the Right side, there is a sensor with a rod from the suspension arm to a switch. Remove the electrical connector to the switch. Tie the cable off some where with cable ties. Finally, you need to cap the valve under the bonnet that sends the fluid to the old shocks. There are caps in the kit for this.
Once complete, the ride should be level with no more bounce. The entire procedure should take you about 4 to 5 hours.
Webseve

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Hello,
Webserve explained well, however there is a few other bits to be added...
In tyhe trunk compartment remove the trim panel (Behind spare)and find the rear axle electrical connector. ( '92 black 8 wire, '93 white 8 wire connector)
Remove the following wires:
YEAR 92- Pin 1 (Brown/ Blue) Pin 2 (white /gray) Pin 5 (yellow/brown) Pin 6 (yellow /blue)
YEAR 93 PIN 1 (Brown /Orange) PIN 2 (White/Gray) PIN 5 (Yellow/Orange) PIN 6 (Yellow/Blue)
Tape up the wires. Becare ful that you dont remove the brake pad sensor wires.
Done; replace trunk panel.
After you have removed the slef leveling assemblies (Shocks) you should remove the crossover pipe from above rear subframe.
Find valve block, and disconnect rear suspension pipe from valve. Cap valve with bleed screw (part no. CAC 8293) . After capping the valve you should remove the pipe that leads back to the SLS.
Start car and look for any leaks.
Blake
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I honestly dont know if the info I gave you is consistent with the 88 year model.
Good luck!
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Phil, Blake is correct. The electrics in the 1988 XJ40 are REALLY different than for the 1990-1994 XJ40. Simply unplug the sensor wire on the right side suspension arm. Most owners fill it with silicone eventually.
Webserve

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Wow! Thank you to WEBSERVE and BLAKE, for your help, I think I will give it a try, and let the group know how I get on. Thanks again guys!

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Yes! But be careful when compressing the springs!!! One of mine accidentally came loose and sprang right up my tight virgin asshole!! Can you belive it??
Cheers,
AssBandit.

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