2001 Jeep Electrical Problem - Hopefully not a big one...

Bad connection in the drivers door wiring harness or contamination due to road salt. The door-ajar sensor is actually built into the latch and isn't "servcicable".

Thing is it's all communications bus stuff, no real hard wires to follow anymore since everything runs on the bus. One fault can cause all sorts of other issues.

I'd start by checking the door harness where it connects to the back of the switch pod. (you're going to have to take the door panel off) Watch the plastic, it has sharp edges! Past experience is the connectors break. I've had to repair the ones on my ZJ and need to rip into the rear drivers side door sometime when it's warmer. lock solinoid is not working properly.

Any easy instructions/documentation on the internet on how to take the panel apart? I must not have put anything good in the search engines.

Thanks,

Helps to have the window down.

(1) Remove trim plug from mirror flag bezel. (2) Remove screws attaching trim panel to door

..Think there are three, one up by the mirror, one in the arm rest, and one by the door release...

(3) Using trim remover (C-4829 or equivalent), detach trim panel perimeter push-in fasteners from door inner panel. (flat screwdriver, use a bit of cardboard so you don't scratch the paint.

..the little plastic trees can break... Autozone and several places have replacement. Just work slowly.

(4) Lift trim panel upward and separate from door. (5) If equipped, disconnect harness connectors for power accessories. (6) Disconnect latch rods from inside handle actuator. (7) Separate trim panel from vehicle.

Any time you work with the plastic clips that are used to attach acutators/rods, be very careful. Never work them cold. They can break and replacements are not cheap.

Ok, after a few minutes I got my door panel off the door. I had to disconnect the speaker (obvious wire), a wire that connects to the from the drivers panel to the adjust the power mirrors. And then the wire that goes to the drivers panel for the windows and door locks. I reconnected all of them but still am having the same issues of lights on while running and the door lock/window controls don't work. Also the puzzling part is still the theft protection doesn't seem to be working. Is there a fuse somewhere that i need to be looking for as well? Or did I not look far enough at the drivers power panel controls yet?

Thanks.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that when I open the drivers door the interior lights don't go on. But when you open the other doors the lights do come on. Also the other windows will not roll down either, but the passenger door lock system does work. Hope that helps a bit more.

That's telling me it's the door module or communications with it. The number of things that's wrong seems to indicate power/ground or dead module.

The only fuse services both driver and passenger door modules. It's Fuse 12 in the Power Distribution Center, 50A.

The problem with these things is you either have to check each line or use a scantool to find faults. Fixing is generally replacing unless your good with electronics.

Pull that fuse for a few minutes then put it back. If for some reason the modules processor hung, that should reset it.

Problem with these newer vehicles is you have so much reliance on "modules" where there used to be simple wires.

Thanks for the ideas, I have tried them all. I just want to make sure I understand things a bit better as I'm new to the mechanical and electrical aspects of vehicles.

The fact that my Theft Protection (flashing light/panic button) doesn't work, my drivers side control module for power windows/locks does not work, or my other windows don't work. The overhead temperature gauge panel and mileage information only shows me dashes could all be relating to just the door module being bad? It's wierd that the interior lights don't come on when I open the drivers door, but they come on when the other doors open and then they stay on when the jeep is running and all doors are closed. I tried to find the drivers door switch but not sure that would have anything to do with it either. If you have anything to add other than probably having someone look at it (which I'm not sure anyone in my town would be good with this) I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks again for your thoughts, I greatly appreciate them and the help.

One more thing I Just noticed is that the controls for the radio on the steering wheel do not work either. I tried checking most other things but the rest seems fine. I'm sure I'll find more things but who knows.

You have a control bus problem. It's going to take a scantool to figure out where the fault is.

See what fault codes pop up.

If I follow the instructions of the turning the key on/off, on/off, on/ off and then on... the message comes up done. Since it sounds like that is supposed to give me a code, does the scantool dig deeper into the system for codes? I'm going to go to Autozone or someplace and have them run the scantool on it but was just curious.

Thanks,

Another dumb question from me. Where on (or in) the door is the door switch to make sure that it is connected and not broken?

Thanks.

Door latch.

Yep, it's built in and according to the book, not servicable. Thing is it's not the only problem you have with the door.

You can test the individual lines.

The door ajar switch is a 18 Gauge, Tan wire with Red stripe. With the door open it should provide a ground.

PIN color/stripe function

1 12Ga Tan/Light-blue 12V power 4 12Ga Black Ground 5 18Ga Orange/Black Window lock motor 7 18Ga Pink/Black Window lock motor 9 20Ga Yellow/Violet bus 10 20Ga LightGreeen/Orange Drivers lock sense (ground when key turned) 11 18Ga Tan/Red Door ajar switch (grounded when closed)

Oops.. (grounded when open)

One other question, however I'm scheduled in a shop finally on Monday to have them look at it.

If it's a ground or a broken door switch, would the overhead display tell me that the Drivers Door is Open when it's open and goes away when it's closed? I just kind of noticed that part so not sure that helps.

That indicates the door switch and module are minimally working and data is crossing the buss. Thing about buss communications is anything that connects to the buss can cause problems all over the place. It's like having a noisy phone in the house. You have to go one-by-one to figure out which one is causing problems.

Just thought I'd post what was found. As you stated, inside the rubber boot for the door a couple wires had become warn through and pulled apart. The mechanic fixed those wires and then had to reset the computer or something, not sure what he called it but everything came back to life.

The only thing that I need to follow up on are the door locks. When you reach a certain speed they are supposed to lock but are not locking.

Thanks for the help, you gave great advice but got to the part where I was not comfortable tracing the wires or splicing things open.

Wow, lucky guy... Most of us have to pay to get them turned off!

That's what I was afraid of, a harness/buss issue. :/ On the bright side they found it and it was in a relitivly easy area to work on.

It's not rocket science. ;) If you plan on saving money or doing some work yourself, get a small spool of wire, a good solder gun, some solder and heat shrink. Then learn. Once you get the basics down it's quite easy.

Think of it this way. If the mechanic can do it so can you. It just takes a bit to get over that initial pinch point. Mine was doing an overhaul on my Chevy 305 V8. In the apartment back when I was in college. Glad the landlord never popped in.

For soldering this is a good starter site.

The only thing I'll add is that what you can solder depends on the size of the iron. Bigger is not always better unless your soldering battery terminals.