Thanks Mike, I was expecting flack on those dents! More concerned with the offset this time, and I'm going to pressure test the system before reassembling everything.
I appreciate your help -
C.R. Starr
Quattro GR4 did pass the time by typing:
The depth on those looks much better.
Got to agree with mike though, #2 doesn't look too good. It should still hold but you will need to check for leaks.
That's why they make that tool ya know. :)
(fondly rememembering an old wrencher admiring my work) Him (smiling): You do this fine work? Me (all aglow with pride): Yep Him (still smiling): It's shit, do it again and this time do it right.
:)
Sounds like the elderly German immigrant who taught one of my shop classes. He was a cabinet maker from Barvaria who proclaimed that there were two ways to do every job: Right und over.
On older engines with any corrision a I usually put 3 or 4 dings around the edge like that on purpose using a sharp punch to stake the edges after they are seated, but I space the punches evenly all the way around.
Man, the perspective on those shots has my eyeballs spinning. I would have sworn they were installed with the dome out instead of in untill I enlarged them!
Definately redoing #2 today - and I did use that tool LOL, just had some trouble on one side. Hmm..isn't this supposed to be a 2 hour job start to finish (including the dismantling...).
C.R. Starr
Well guys, that's it - I pressure tested the system and I still have leaks and I so thought I had it this time. Now it's time to go to the professionals! I truly appreciate all of your help, but I am obviously doing something wrong - lack of experience no doubt.
Happy New Year!!!!
C.R. Starr
Did you clean up the sides of the bores before you replaced the plugs?
That's a drag.....
Some engine rebuilders have this pellet they throw inside the core before putting the core plugs in. Apparently it is some type of super leak stop to make up for shoddy workmanship.... They are supposed to 'know' how to do the job without leaks, but with the workers they hire....
Maybe go to a machine shop and ask about it. I think I would take my heater core out of the circuit before using the junk though.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >I did, but maybe not good enough - and I used permatex sealant. The plugs held at 20 psi (the pressure recommended on the tester to test a system that has a 16 psi cap), but they leaked - not heavily, just a trickle.
I got a laugh from this: "to make up for shoddy workmanship..." I suppose it's possible that the place I take it to "could" do this too.
I think I'm happier knowing that it will have some warranty if they blow again - though I doubt they will if a specialty shop checks everything. And besides, at the 20 psi testing pressure I noticed a very small air leak around the passenger-side radiator end cap. I didn't see any coolant leaking, but definately heard a hiss.
Who knows, maybe at 16 psi they won't leak and the radiator won't hiss, but I don't want to take the chance of loosing another plug with a hot engine at high revs on a freeway 25 miles from my home while passing a slower vehicle!
Take care -
C.R. Starr
Damn man, your luck just isn't running well for you.
That radiator is blown at the seam. Unfortunately if it is the plastic sucker, it isn't repairable. It is a gasket that normally lets go. Planned obsolescence at it's best. If it is a metal rad, you can take it off, clean it well and fix it using plumbers solder and acid flux. This works well.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Well this Jeep has treated me very well, and it's almost 9 years old so I'm not complaining (too badly). I think a new rad is around $200, which isn't terrible (all things considered) though hopefully it can be repaired.
C.R. Starr
97 Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0L (with leaky core plugs) 82 Audi coupe 2.1L - runs great, almost 150K miles 83 Audi ur-quattro AWD 2.2L, 20V turbo 375 hp WRC rally car 85 Audi 4000 quattro AWD 2.2L (bad clutch)Our 88 and 86 still have brass and copper rads. It's nice to be able to fix them. Is your rad metal?
We have had our 88 for 6 or 7 years now too.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >I just verified it's definately plastic =(
Happy New Year!
C.R. Starr
97 Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0L (with leaky core plugs and plastic radiator) 82 Audi coupe 2.1L - runs great, almost 150K miles 83 Audi ur-quattro AWD 2.2L, 20V turbo 375 hp WRC rally car 85 Audi 4000 quattro AWD 2.2L (bad clutch)
The new one is metal - I'm getting all core plugs replaced, the new metal radiator, and a front-end alignment for less than $550! This is because I brought them the Jeep with all the manifolds removed - easy access, easy price.
I'm happy with that =)
C.R. Starr
97 Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0L (with leaky core plugs) 82 Audi coupe 2.1L - runs great, almost 150K miles 83 Audi ur-quattro AWD 2.2L, 20V turbo 375 hp WRC rally car 85 Audi 4000 quattro AWD 2.2L (bad clutch)MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.