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76 CJ5 not charging/starting

Bought a 76 CJ5 a couple of weeks ago (Hooo-Yahh!) Couple of days after I bought it she wouldnt start. Replaced battery. Couple of days later, she wouldnt start, battery was dead. Replaced alternator & external voltage regulator. As the days went by... engine developed 'irregularities': sputtering, backfiring, stalling. Some days it would crank right up and idle nice and smooth... other days it would take me 10 minutes of cranking to get it to fire, and then it would sputter and cough and backfire and generally have a bad attitude all day long. She finally stalled out at a light and refused to cooperate any further. Got it over to the local starter and alternator guy (local mechanic with a good reputation) and he replaced the ignition module & a piece called a pick-up coil? Or maybe it was the 'pick-up' piece of the coil? Anyways... she fired right up and idled smooth when I picked it up. I was happy. Drove it the rest of the afternoon, and into the evening. Had the lights on all evening, and I noticed the lights getting dimmer, and the engine running rougher. Didnt like low gears/low torque.. didnt want to drive down the block in 2nd (coughing/sputtering) but when I shifted up to 3rd, it would idle along better. Had to wait to pick up my daughter from dance, so I sat outside with the lights off and the engine idling waiting for her. Was idling ok, but I was nervous about getting home fer sure! Finally had to go in and get her, so I turned off the engine. Of course, battery was dead when I got back out there. Jumped it the next day (yesterday), got it home no problem. This morning I was encouraged when it wanted to turn over, but she wont start. Now the battery is dead again.

Recap:

76 CJ5 w/AMC 304 New battery New alternator New voltage regulator New ignition module new pick-up coil fan belt still tight, can't turn alternator fan by hand. dont have a multi-meter yet, getting one this weekend.

mechanic said I needed to change plugs cause of all the gas that had been dumping on them as I was trying to start it, so gonna do that this weekend. Gonna start replacing plugs, wires, filters, etc... but methinks it's something deeper.

did I mention the wiring is a nightmare? previous owner had a wire fetish... I've pulled out 3 miles of wire that didnt go anywhere. He has lights mounted everywhere (purple lights UNDER the tub, mounted to the frame?? .:shudder:.) There's wires hanging everywhere, some hot, some not (got a little tester with a bulb). New harness is on my wish list, but spool of wire and cutters and solder iron more budget realistic. The headlights, for example, come on and off. The cheap little 'fog-lights' dude wired up shine great, but the headlights? Nope... the little floor-kicker for the dims/brights is severly rusted, and by nudging it I can get the lights to stay lit up... yikes.

Any suggestions for something I need to check first? This weekend I'll check out the alternator and every connection I can find with the multi-meter, but is there something obvious I need to know? The 'Charging System' so to speak, is obviously in trouble.. but what's the cure?

thanks!

Mel

Reply to
Mel
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A connection comes to my mind.

The ground to the body tub is the first one. I would be making sure the wire mesh strap from the engine to the firewall is solid. You might have one from the battery to the firewall too.

If the body doesn't have a good ground, that regulator won't fire up and the lights can drain the battery down. The alternator need a good ground too.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mel wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

This sounds pretty simple, and not like you needed an ignition modlue and pickup coil (which is the triggering device inside the distributor.)

Mike is correct, you should first check all connections and main cable condition at the battery, then ensure the grounds from the battery to the body, and from the engine to the frame & body are in good condition. If the battery is new, plus the alternator (which on a '76 has an internal regulator), then the only things left to cause the problem are the wires & connections.

As for the ignition issues, on a '76 the connectors from the distributor to the ignition module (which is the silver box mounted on the inside fender on the right side) are problematic. The wires at connector should be soldered together one by one and insulated individually and as a bundle with heat shrink, the connector should be thrown away. This is the main source of stalling issues on '76 & 77 CJs that used the Prestolite ignition. Note: this will not cause the battery to go dead, if you really do have an ignition problem then you have two completely diferent issues.

Reply to
Jerry McG

you should disconnect the positive lead of the battery, then place a multimeter in current mode in series with the battery and the battery cable. then check to see if any current is flowing with everything off(use at least

Reply to
johnny

...so is it a bad thing if the ONLY ground I can find is running from the battery to the block? I did find one firewall ground, but it runs into a group of wires that arent hooked to anything. I did mention I have wiring issues, didn't I? ;)

Where exactly should the block/frame/firewall mesh ground wire run? (AMC 304)

I've been reading old grounding threads, and want to start grounding everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?

Hey Jerry - my 76's ignition module is gold, and my regulator is external. When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now with the new pieces.

Thanks everyone!

Mel

Reply to
Mel

Umm yes, you are getting the right idea.

The alternator can be grounded to the firewall or the battery negative. The fact the case has a ground wire likely means the bracket has rusted beyond continuity for a ground path.

Normally the mesh ground strap goes from one of the head or intake manifold bolts up to the center of the firewall. Then a second mesh ground jumps from one side of an engine mount to the frame on the other side.

I would also run a dedicated ground to one of the bolts holding on the regulator too just so rusty fender bolts don't interfere with it's signal.

Mike

Mel wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

You, that's a bad thing, indeed.

everything correctly, especially grounding the alternator to the frame, I'll do that this weekend. There's a GND bolt coming off the back of the alt, run wire from there to.... anywhere on the frame?<

If you have the original alt bracket it is metal and therefore will ground to the frame as long as the block to frame ground wire is installed.

When the battery's charged up, she starts MUCH easier now<

Sorry, I was referring to the 6 cyl, which uses a Delco alt with internal regulator. I'm not sure what color the ign module is on the 304, but it should be on the right inner fenderwell regtardless.

Reply to
Jerry McG

The factory negative battery cable for 1976 had a tag line that ran from the battery terminal clamp to a bolt near the passenger-side grill brace on the firewall. If your cable has been replaced the PO might have thought the body ground it wasn't needed.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

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