Carter BBD ---

OH yeah.. more questions. What should I clean that thing in? It is obvious that I haven't done this before.. but I am going to remove it from the manifold, and work on the a counter with a sink. I have a can of choke/carb cleaner.. .what should I use? Maybe a painters' roller pan? I have some anti-seize stuff too.. use that on the choke plate..and linkage? Should I use something on the bolts when I put the carb back on the manifold to keep them from backing out?

Thanks again.. :)

Have you checked your fuel lines? Could be that when you shut the truck off you are losing all the pressure in the fuel system and it takes those extra revolutions to get the mechanical fuel pump to pressurize the system again. I had the same problem then I replaced the fuel line and it rectified it. that was until I broke one of the return lines when I was doing the brake lines and the problem started again.....

Jay

84 CJ7 33x12.5 MTR's

Yeah.. I have thought about that. I don't know anything about it at this point. I am going to bottom of it when I get into the garage. A lot of work went into the fuel system before I got the thing. I am going to replace the filter, and the line from the filter upward. If that doesn't fix it.. I'm going to start heading back down the line from the filter...

Boooo

Billy

--Getting excited about owning this Gem now that I can work on it again.

:)

I can toss some ideas at you.

First off, get a carb kit. They cost about $20.00 and come with all the gaskets and a new float needle and seat, an accelerator pump and good directions.

I use a half of an old antifreeze or oil jug as my soaking bin and use carb cleaner spray on the parts in the bin and the carb itself.

Pay close attention to the idle tubes, they usually need to be physically reamed at the crimped end to get them clean. Oversizing them slightly helps too. I use a welding tip cleaning tool for this. See:

The choke is a bi-metal spring that is 'normally' closed until 12 volts hits it, then it unwinds opening the choke.

Having to crank and pump the crap out of it after it sits is a symptom of either the gas filter being in upside down or a pin hole in the gas line on the suction side of the pump. Filter in upside down is real common. The filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the Top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the top, then gas will syphon back to the tank when it sits air locking the pump.

The 'modified' spring on the linkage should be no problem.

The sol vac only has a screw in it if you have an automatic or AC, otherwise it is not needed and yes, the Nutter will kill it if it was in use so you need to set the idle rpm accordingly. When in drive on an auto or when the AC comes on, it might need to be upped a bit.

One tip on carb cleaning. If you don't need to unscrew something to clean it, don't. If it has decent performance normally, the settings inside are ok, so put them back the same rather than trying to adjust everything the carb kit instructions 'say' can be adjusted.

Things like the new float needle and the new accelerator pump will need to be adjusted.

Good luck,

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Billy Tolcher wrote:

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate it.

:)

Should I use some antiseize anything? .. or something on the bolts to kee them from back out?

Thanks!

Billy

I find you sometimes have to retighten the carb base plate's 4 nuts down once a couple days after the job, but other than that, no real need for any thread treatment.

Oh, while doing the job, I 'highly' recommend you also clean out the gas line from the filter to the carb. It has a dip in it that collects junk and it will get disturbed when doing the job. This can mean a plugged idle tub a week after it is done. At least the venturi cluster with the idle tubes can be pulled out from the top for a quick clean if needed down the road.

Mike

Billy Tolcher wrote:

Cool...

Thanks!

Billy