Dead Jeep

I tried starting fluid with no luck. Every once in a while it will "pre" fire and cause some flames in the TB.

There is no crank postion sensor. The FI works off the tach lead on the HEI.

I did replace the module in the HEI yesterday, no change. There is spark at the plugs.

It really sounds like it jumped time. Does anyone know if there is a way on the 360 that maybe, the gear on the cam that drives the distributor can rotate independently of the cam? I am thinking some how the distributor some how slipped 180*. I can't remember how the timing gear went onto the cam and how they are related to the distributor drive gear.

Grabbing at straws right now, I thought I was a good "mechanic". This is too crazy. I am willing to try anything. I have a friend coming over with a compression testing gauge, although the compression seemed good on the #1 cylinder using the finger test.

Thanks,

--James

It's not difficult to check for spark, just pull a plug wire and peel the boot back to expose the contact. Hold it 1/4 inch from known good ground and crank the engine over.

If no spark is seen, go to step 1 below,

1. Look closely at the two small wires on the pickup coil in your hei dist. In fact, grab them and give a tug. These will often break from the constant flexing they do with the movement of the vacuum advance. Often times the insulation is not even broken, just the wire inside, that's why you want to give them a tug.

If you did see a spark then a timing light will flash at cranking speed.

2.Hook one up and take a look at your timing marks with the timing light. If your chain has slipped your timing will be way off. Having the rotor point to #1 is only an aproximation. The ignition does not necessarily fire when the rotor is centered on the contac in the cap. it's firing is determined by the pick-up. You can be pointing to #1 with the rotor and be a long ways off with the timing, enough to indicate the chain has jumped. Steve g.

I found the problem. I just am wondering now how it happened. I had some friends stop by and they were turning the key while I had the distributor cap off. The rotor was not turning over at the same speed at the starter, it would skip a beat every so often. We removed the distributor and looked down the hole while someone was bumping the starter. There seems to be a few teeth missing off the distributor drive gear on the cam. The gear on the cam didn't seem loose, but I will be able to see it better once the timing chain cover is off.

If anyone has a clue as to why this would happen, I would be glad to hear from you.

Thanks to all.

--James

RocknTJ did pass the time by typing:

"ow"

The only thing that can hold the rotor back with any force is the oil pump but then there is a 70psi bypass. I've had the rotor tick against the cap before but that was due to a worn bushing.

It could be due to a defect in the cam or distributor gear, but even then it's not something I've ever seen. (not counting engine bits being sucked into the oil system after shredding a main bearing.) >_<

At any rate your looking at quite a bit of work to fix that problem.

(yes, the cam can be pulled from the front without dropping the pan but with missing teeth your time ahead to drop the pan to check everything.)

I'd probably do it again, but rotate the engine via the damper bolt. Just so you can get a better look at the teeth on that cam.

Thanks for the links Bill.

The guys at IFSJA gave me these links:

?t=2039 had no idea this was a common problem. In addition to that, if I don't fixthe cause of the problem it will keep on happening.Unreal.... I need to do some reading before I tear into it. Thanks all.

--James

to keep from breaking the distributor, oil pump drive gears:> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

I had no idea this was a common problem. In addition to that, if I don't fix> the cause of the problem it will keep on happening.> Unreal.... I need to do some reading before I tear into it.>

Exactly, go figure.... Edlebrock timing chain & gears. Documentation to follow.

--James

Wow!

You would think the makers would know that or was the chain for a different version of the engine?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RocknTJ wrote:

You would think, huh?

According to their site:

only sale one set of gears for a 360 that covers '67-'91, so it must bethe right set of gears.

--James

Here you go...

can see the material left in the oil passage way, prevnting oil fromreaching the front.

What a waste... and the new gear with a discount was $50.

--James

> I had no idea this was a common problem. In addition to that, if I don'tfix

We will see....

----------

' snipped-for-privacy@edelbrock.com'

To whom it may concern:

I recently purchased one of your timing chain and gear sets for my Jeep, p/n

7818. I took my Jeep for it's first run this last weekend and on the way home it died. I towed it back home and proceeded to trouble shoot the problem. After a day and a half I found the problem. The problem stems from your cam shaft gear being manufactured improperly.

This link shows a picture of your gear:

As you can tell, the materialleft in the oil passage way prevents oil from getting to the timing chainand distributor gear on my Jeep 360CID. This picture shows the damage yourgear did: . The distributor gearon the cam shaft has lost teeth, this after approximately 30 miles ofdriving.

The new distributor gear with my discount cost me $53, including tax. The time spent taking apart my Jeep and the time lost sitting on the trail with no ride home are immeasurable.

I am not the only one to get one of your bad gears. This link:

further documentssome of your work.

I am extremely disappointed with your workmanship and I am tempted to make this an issue in small claims court. I will base my response/reaction on the position you take and your timeliness dealing with this.

Sincerely,

--James Towle

Just amazing. This is apparently an 'old' issue too.

Can't someone nail those jerks that are making such a screwed up product?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

RocknTJ wrote:

> > I had no idea this was a common problem. In addition to that, if I don't> fix

Say it isn't so I seem to remember seeing a tv program highlighting Edelbrock as an American Family owned company who prides on quailty. I hope they will come through.......

Mike Roma> Just amazing. This is apparently an 'old' issue too.