Grounding points

SB did pass the time by typing:

I6 93 to 99? it runs to the coil bolt V8 4.7 you have one at the back of the intake plenum on either side Other than that I dunno.

If your going to take the bolt out clean the surface with a wire brush and clean the bolt/nut/washers.

I'll have to look that up.

For battery terminals it's different than other areas due to the acid fog from the battery vents. They make a real tiny tube of corrosion preventer. Reddish looking stuff, nasty on the hands, but it works like gangbusters. So, oddly, do those little felt washers.

Just regurally check connections at each oil change. A little cleaning and some dilectric grease/NoOX or similar if it's needed.

The hard to get at connections I wrap with self-vulcanizing rubber tape and inject dilectric grease or pot them with RTV.

Ground locations for 1976-82 Jeep CJs:

Headlight to grill, both sides, near the cold-air intake openings, wire from lamp socket to small nut and bolt.

Block to frame, 6-cyl., left side, an 8 ga. wire jumper across the motor mount.

Front marker lights and washer pump, wire to sheet metal screw in firewall near bulkhead connector.

Battery to block, 6-cyl., Battery cable to bolt on the block near oil dipstick.

Battery to firewall, approx 10 ga. wire moulded into the battery connector to a stud and nut on the firewall, right of center.

Alternate to above: Wire mesh strap from center bolt on bell housing to firewall.

Dash lighting system, one or more wires from headlamp switch harness to bottom lip of dash, left of switch.

In-dash radio, various locations on dash.

Gas tank sender, wire to sheet metal screw in upper surface of cross-member forward of tank, left side, approx 6" from left frame rail.

Tail lamps, wire to sheet metal screw in metal baffle to the rear of the tire in left rear wheel box. (I'm not entirely sure of this one).

The horn, front signals, heater fan and wipers all take their ground from their mounting hardware.

Ok...so there's plenty. Do you do anything to protect them?

SB did pass the time by typing:

Try to keep them above the water line. :)

(for open ones, a cleaning and coating of dilectric grease) I have heard of some folks cleaning then spraying them with undercoating but I dunno about that.

I'm unsure about covering up a connection point like that....all you really do is move the corrosion down to where you didn't coat it. I could see it working (put a barrier to oxygen and it can't oxidize right!)....

I remember something before about an issue with a rusting bridge and how a mayor wanted it cleaned cuz it looking ugly. Well, they found that the layer of rust was preventing further rusting as it coated the bridge and prevented further air/water/salt from getting in there!

I believe if you read on the copper goop you will find it is a conductive grease.

They make straight dielectric grease also.

The conductive paste can be put right on a cleaned up connection before putting the wire or bolt on.

The dielectric grease is best over top of a clean connection to keep humidity out.

I used dielectric on every plug and socket I could get my hands on when I did my frame up 'glass build. I put it at the seal area of the plugs but didn't worry if a little got on the contacts.

I have run my CJ7 through 42" of standing water with the bow wave up over the hood and haven't had any electrical issues. Wet butt issues, but hey...

Oh, my floor dimmer switch crapped out this weekend. That one is sealed so I couldn't grease inside it...

Your main grounds are from the battery to engine. Either from the battery to firewall and/or from the rear of the engine head on the 6, bell housing on the 8 to the firewall to ground the tub. The frame ground is a mesh strap across an engine mount.

Having a direct ground from the engine or alternator to the firewall is a good thing even if your battery fender or firewall grounds.

The direct line seems to help the alternator keep the lights nice and bright, especially if you have aftermarket lights. With them you can overload the stock ground straps.

Rear lights ground through the fixture bolts and a screw in a wire, front lights use a wire and screw into the grill.

I live in the rust belt and it is really amazing how many fixes are a simple ground, from no spark to no wipers....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

SB wrote:

When I was putting the finishing touchs on my `79 CJ-5 electrical system I added a strap from the alternator to the block and one from the fender to the grill. The alternator ground was just for giggles, but I noticed that I was having ground issues with the grill.

I'm up in Barrie and am keeping an eye on the salt lines in the wheel well and such.

I have seen a few over the years that had punky alternator bracket grounds, so no, a dedicated one wasn't out of line.

I have also heard of the grill issues with it not grounding nice.

I am all 'glass, so have a dedicated 10 ga. ground pickup in each harness.

Mike

Lee Ayrt>