Discovered Bore

Ouch!

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

I would 'highly' recommend you get a hold of the shop and try to find out exactly what they did to it and what the invoices mean.

I saw a 'generic' rebuilt engine quote.

They only fix what is messed up on those kind of quotes....

Still looks like a gas washed cylinder to me though...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

Bad news. Best not to throw any more money at that block.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

I took the intake manifold to a perfomance shop today to have the injector in question tested and the mechanic told me it's highly unlikely to be cylinder wash. He looked at the intake manifold and saw oil in each manifold "finger" (which I didn't see before) and when he opened the throttle there was a pool of oil in the there. When I looked in the same place when the intake was on the engine I didn't see a drop. I felt and ran a q-tip inside the pcv valve hose and didn't come back with any oil stains. I put my hand inside the filter hose which connects to the throttle body and I didn't feel any oil there either. Of course, this was closer to when I started this process and not in the later days. Could be it got worse in the end or was pooled in the intake and didn't show up in the throttle body. He told me Blow By was going on and I needed a new engine.

Is there anything else that could be going on as I'm getting ansy about pulling this piston. Could there be some effect which is affecting only #2? Should I have him test #2 injector anyway and see what he finds?

Thanks,

Bill

BTW, what's the maximum bore on a 258?

With your overbore, sounds like your current block is worn out. Blocks don't last forever. If you try to re-ring just one piston and replace a few bearings you are accomplishing nothing but a short-term band-aid. It's time to buy a rebuilt motor.

Be sure to get it from a reputable company with a good warranty, even if it costs a few dollars more. Otherwise, you are asking for heartache in the future.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

Have any local recomendations (who can pull old and install rebuilt)?

Have any local recomendations (who can pull old and install rebuilt)?

Have any local recomendations (who can pull old and install rebuilt)?

Sorry about the multiple posts. My newsreader or isp......

I previously suggested Orange Engine as a reputable rebuilder, but you would need to do your own install.

I hesitate to recommend a particular shop. You already know that I do business with Jeeps R Us (and am their lawyer), but they may be too expensive for you. T&J's does good work, but are probably just as expensive for a job like this.

You might try calling John at All Four Wheel Drive in Corona. His is primarily a gear shop, and he probably doesn't do engines, but he is a straight shooter, knows all the players in the Jeep business in Southern California, and can tell you who in Orange County knows Jeeps and does good work. Tell him I referred you.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

Thanks Bill,

I am trying to keep the $$$ down. Thanks for the recommendations.

It really frosts my butt that I can't afford a real house here. This state (CA) is way out of line. Plus I have to listen to the freak'n helicopters buzzing around my appt all the time. "The choppers man, the choppers!!!!". I'd really like to find work in AZ where the homes are still reasonable and I can have a garage where I can pull an engine.

Bill

I contacted the shop closely after I bought the jeep to try to determine what they did and they couldn't give me an answer because of the time between when it was done and when I asked.

Bill

Just because it's 40 over doesn't necessarily mean it is trash. If the bores and pistons are not worn out, ring it and run it . you don't even need a micrometer to find out, pull the pistons, remove the rings, measure with a feeler gauge. That doesn't cost anything. Save your money.

-- Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California

Yeah, I haven't given up yet. I'm just laying out contingency plans when I ask for engine sources.......

Plus, when I looked at the 50 or so bolts (exaggerated) that hold up the oil pan and that I'd have to take more things off (starter) to get at the passenger's side, I got weary

Bill

Too bad you are so far away.

You need someone that knows engines and isn't just out to take you money.

Something really strange is going on.....

What you are now describing is blow by, big blow by.

You cannot have this with 150 psi compression unless the PCV valve is just plain broken or shut off from a bad charcoal canister.

What did your air filter look like? It 'must' have been just full of oil to have the intake with oil pools in it.

If it wasn't full of oil, then you do not have 'blow by'.

You also 'must' have had one big blue cloud following you with the amount of oil you describe in the intake, no two ways about it. (unless it is gas wash)

You are aware that a dead charcoal canister will produce enough blow by to really imitate a blown engine right? It will soak an air filter in a week.

I am really almost thinking that someone sold you a dead FI system. I think it was broken and giving them the same fits and strange symptoms you are getting so they unloaded it on you.

Gas wash is very strange if you haven't seen it before. It takes very little gas to wash down the dirt and oil and make a messy slurry that almost looks like oil. This can pool in an intake manifold or into a piston.

You are describing injectors leaking down and pooling in the intake or 'gas wash'.

Good luck Bill!

I am out of ideas.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Mike, Is there any way to test a charcoal can detatched from the jeep?

Would a bad charcoal Can cause the effect like we see in #2 cylinder?

When I checked the other items (air filter tube/housing, pcv tube, throttle body) I also looked at the air filter. It was dirty at the bottom but nothing that bad. Remember, this air filter is sprayed with oil so the oil I sprayed it with accumulated at the bottom. Like an ounce or so. You couldn't even get your hands wet with it. Not to the degree you discribe.

Bill

The charcoal canister purges into the PCV system when the engine is hot and at speed.

If the purge valve is blown, it effectively shuts down the PCV system so oil blows into the air filter.

The only test I know is to pinch off the line from the canister to the PCV system at idle to see if the idle changes. If the idle changes, the canister purge is dead.

A dead canister will also cause an unstable idle speed. It will vary up and down and surge slightly.

No, a dead canister will not just get one cylinder 'wet'. I also don't believe a dead canister or blow by of any type can pool oil in the bottom of the intake manifold or in the individual fingers leading to the cylinders.

When my air filter filled with oil, it dripped out on the ground. The lip of the intake prevents oil from dripping down the throat of the carb or TB unless the oil in the air filter is deeper than 1/4" or so and you have the air filter that sits on top of the carb or TB.

I still think gas and bad injectors man.....

How was the gas mileage on that engine?

If it was mine, I think I would put the carb back on and see what happens before spending a dime on it.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote: