Help!!!!

I have an 84 Jeep CJ7 just recently purchased was told it had water in the gas got it home drained the tank, still running very rough started diagnosing problems started normal course of action, plugs, wires, filters etc. Still running rough pulled plugs again 1 & 2 are lean and

3 & 4 rich and 5 & 6 are lean. Started again pulled one plug wire at a time starting at 1 when 5 & 6 were pulled neither had any effect on how it ran.
Reply to
jd04
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That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.

A kit for the carb is in the twenty buck range and does them wonders.

Meanwhile here is a link on doing the idle tubes. They actually need to be reamed out usually. This can be done from the top without removing the carb. You just have to remove the choke plate and the venturi will twist and lift out.

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One other thing is the intake manifold itself. It can need a retorque. To test spray WD40 or carb cleaner along the manifold head seam. If the engine stumbles you have a leak.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks for taking the time to reply. It now has a weber carb on it could this still apply?

Mike Roma> That sounds like plugged up idle tubes. Very common.

Reply to
jd

That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more possible loose carb base. They are sneaky and come loose easily.

Now that you have a Weber carb, what has been done with the gas tank vent or charcoal canister? Is it still tied into the PCV system?

The gas tank vent or canister also has an air filter on the bottom of it. When this $2.00 filter is blocked, it does the damnedest imitation of running out of gas and really lean.

When mine blocked last time, I got a 50 rpm increase in the idle when I opened the gas cap.

Has the mix been set right on the Weber?

Mike

jd wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks again Mike.

None of those suggestions seems to help....just my luck!

The jeep was flooded and when we removed the gas tank it did have water in it. We have sensed cleaned it and reinstalled it. The jeep is still running rough on idle and does get better at a higher rpm but still has a miss. 1,2,5 & 6 are running very lean. We are running out of things to try and the manual we bought isn't giving us much direction to go.

Anything else anyone can think of to try would be greatly appreciated as we will try anything and everything to fix this problem.

Mike Roma> That would still apply for the possible loose manifold and even more

Reply to
jd

Can you not just make the idle mix more rich? This shouldn't affect the high speed running much, because the mix screws down front are for the idle only.

Normally I start off with the mix screws really rich, then lean them 1/4 turn at a time each while revving it between turns to set it. When it starts to lean stumble, I then back them off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The rpm usually needs setting during this too. If it varies more than 50 rpm, I adjust as I go.

A common cause for a lean mix, is the charcoal canister's purge valve. It is only supposed to be active when the engine is hot and at speed. The vacuum signal for it comes from a ported source and goes through the CTO valve and the air filter's temperature valve, same as the EGR vacuum.

If the purge valve is open at idle, it will make a bad lean at idle that can't be adjusted for. To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the back of the carb and there you should find a T fitting or a solenoid thing that has a line to the canister. Pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the canister isn't plumbed right or it's valve is dead.

Mike

jd wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Suspect of water still in the fuel chain somewhere? Can usually be flushed by running massive amounts of pure alcohol thru it. Methanol is bad because it rots everything and the fumes can blind ya, isopropyl works but is not as good as ethanol. Any moonshiners near the OP willing to help mix up a special batch?

How long was the water there, long enough to pretty much clog up everything with truly stubborn deposits?

I might bypass the tank feed with one of those small supply feeds used for adding cleaners and see if it runs better with that--might help isolate the remaining problem to either the tank/line area or possibly to something else right at the carb/engine and ignition.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

Reply to
Lon

If you had water in the tank you probably had it in the carburetor too. Carbs are made out of really cheap metal that turns into insoluble white salt on contact with water. I am thinking that you need to get a carburetor kit and completely disassemble and clean everything. If you do that, then you at least eliminate the carburetor as a source of the problem.

When you had the tank out, how exactly did you get the water out of it? I like to leave them in the hot sun for a day or two, so it is really "dry as a bone" in there. This time of year, that may not be so practical, but the inside of that tank has to be dry.

With water in the tank, it could also be in the canister and other parts of the fuel system.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

I saw one a while back that had a totally dissolved insides. It was that salt like stuff.

Mike

Earle Hort>

Reply to
Mike Romain

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