Is this Jeep worth it?

90% of them were out of focus or personal 'candid' close up shots so I just grabbed the Jeep shots.

Mike

Billy Ray wrote:

This really hurts, but I have to agree with John here.

If you can't find the dip stick, you should just lower the hood and take it to a friend or relative that knows this sort of stuff.

Surely, if you need us to tell you where the dip sticks are, we won't be able to give you enough details to help with the other stuff you need to look for.

I found the tranny stick, I just wanted an idea to save time-- in case it was hard to get at/find, like on my 89 honda. (the tranny dipstick is buried way down on the left side-- I bet you'd have a difficult time finding it yourself as well if you didn't know where to look).

As it turned out I found the tranny stick just fine.

Jeff Strickland wrote:

OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car, here's the skinny.

It's a:

93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2 208K miles. Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch). Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck in locked/closed. She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced). Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.

All that stuff I can live with. Here's where I need advice.

I did the fig 8's (about 8 of them) at low speed to check the VC, no steering wheel jumping or tire scrub/squeal, so the VC seems to be OK BUT--

on one of the 8's, the tranny seemed to momentarily slip. She indicated that she has been noticing that "slip" over the last few weeks. For ex., off the line, once in a blue moon it will momentarily slip.

OK.

Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty. Power steering fluid also near empty.

She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers as detailed in the OP.

She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to recall some "pump" that she changed.

She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some cracking.

Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from

60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it accelerates quickly.

She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.

I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.

The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.

Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl, other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both he said should be replaced.

The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car would have more "punch" when flooring it.

I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I assume it doesn't.

Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.

Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.

At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet. He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which is expensive.

The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being exposed to leaking tranny fluid.

Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the hood.

I am thinking he is talking about "greasing" the differential or something like that (another friend had an 88 blazer and I recall something to that effect).

So what is correct/ What do you guys think?

Overall?

Still worth $1000? Even if the diff/trans case need replacing?

Could I get 2 yrs/20K miles out of it as is, just by adding fluids as needed?

Thanks all-- you've been extremely helpful thus far- Much appreciated.

Jim

I would take it to another mechanic just for a second opinion. Sure wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked. If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make leak detection a lot easier. The transfer case could be the rear seal. There was a problem with the transfer case switch. My Dad's 94GC had the same problem. I think he replaced the switch. You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight? I think there was a recall on the ABS pump, but that may have been on earlier years. There is a web site (which I no longer have) that can help on recall information. Other than that, I would probably get it, but I have a reputation for bringing home stray Jeeps and nursing them back to health.

Good luck, chris d

83CJ8, 94YJ, 92XJ, 90XJ,86XJ,89GW,DJ5,84XJ

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:

Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.

An alignment check is in order.

Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside? If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.

The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal. They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.

The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the rest under the tread plate.

You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.

Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.

If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.

Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane you probably need.

low, but not by much. no-codes is good.

Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.

The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.

The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.

A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.

Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle and pump.

The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission. There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest part is squeezing in the fluid.

Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly unlikely though.

Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out. All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical circuit.

If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.

This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..

No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which I don't think is too unusual.

If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride (street or highway) fine.

Jim

Not from in or outside.

This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed OK after for the 20 min ride back.

You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?

OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid, separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the hood.

So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being "wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."

Great info! Thx

Excellent advice from all so far!

You guys are terrific, more than I could've hoped for!

I probably won't have a chance/be able to take it to another mechanic, but I will make an attempt..

Most likely, I'll just have to make a decision based on all that is being said here.

Thanks again guys!

Feel free to keep it comin'! It's a tremendous help!

Jim

Fluid can leak from the transmission to the transfer case, if there is a defect in the rear transmission seal. Then the transfer case will be overfilled with fluid, and the transmission fluid level will be down. The fix is to remove the transfer case, then replace the transmission rear seal. The seal is inexpensive enough, but the labor to remove and replace the transfer case is not small change. Then would be a good time to get the transmission serviced, and the transmission (transfer case?) mount replaced. The speedometer seal is a likely spot for leaks from the transfer case, but all that extra fluid from the transmission isn't helping it any.

You can probably get away with putting off this repair for a while, as long as you drain the excess fluid from the transfer case.

Earle

--snippy--

probably the plastic link clip has broken.

Yes. They all act to support the engine assembly. Sort of like three legs on a stool.

The tranny can leak several places, the tailshaft which can seep down on the transfer case, the tranny pan, or the seals by the torque converter (although that's a rare leak). Fluid can also evaporate with time.

In my experience, and all the newer 4x4s use essentially the same design, a leak from the tailshaft leaks into the transfer case, not down on it. I replaced a few torque converter seals in my day as a mechanic, and I formed the opinion that a leak there is not so rare. The shop I worked for had a policy of replacing this seal whenever the transmission was out of the vehicle. I have yet to see a change in lubricant levels, that could be explained by evaporation. Fuel maybe, but not lubricant like engine or transmission oil.

Earle

--snippy--

The t-cases are sealed units these days Earl.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

Uh yeah, but this seal is designed to keep oil in, not out. Transmission fluid, leaking into the space between the transmission and the transfer case, will make its way into the transfer case. The symptoms are unmistakable too. Fluid added to the transmission, no sign where it went, but if you think to remove the transfer case fill plug, a couple of quarts gushing out from there.

Earle

Ah ok.... Mine has an air space that is vented so tranny fluid would just come out in-between the two units rather than build up enough pressure to get into the t-case.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Earle Hort>

Just FYI, I have added a pile more albums to the public or non members list.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

$50 says I can find it in less than 30 seconds.

They don't make a dip stick that I can't take a reasonably good guess as to where it is.

I'd pass.

Walk, don't run to the nearest exit (unless you like to fix this kind of stuff. (Since you asked where the dip sticks are, my guess is you don't do much of this kind of thing.)

Keep walking and don't look back.

Sure, you _could_ get two years out of it, but you may not get 2 weeks.

What it's worth is completely dependent on what you are able/willing to do, and on what your tolerance is for fixing stuff.

Frankly, my advice is to keep walking.