Manual Transmission Problem

I have a 2000 Wrangler with a 4 liter and manual five speed. I'm the second owner and the first owner was a nurse that used the jeep as a highway commuter car. The jeep has not been wrecked, rolled, or ever stuck.

Over a year ago the reverse lockout pin was found (broken) while changing the transmission fluid. I took it to the dealer under warranty and they rebuilt the transmission. However, as soon as I picked up the Jeep there was a shift problem. That's when upshifting into 2ndfelt like a tooth or two was grinding past. It would shift and stay in 2nd gear, but it was like the clutch was only partially depressed while upshifting - like a lazy upshift micro-grind. Shifting up to 3rd had a similar feel, but was less noticeable. Downshifting was as it should be. No grind, but smooth shifting.

So, I took it back of course. They tried a number of things, including rebuilding the transmission, clutch, throwout bearing, etc. Nothing helped. And after five overnight trips to the dealer (30 miles away) they told me there was nothing they could do. When they test drove it, it was like they were driving the Pope-mobile and they would always take about three seconds to shift from one gear to the next - and with that time lag, the problem is less noticeable - but I could still hear it from the passenger seat. However, that kind of shift is not normal or comfortable. I didn't throw a big enough fit and the warranty eventually expired.

The problem stayed and eventually got to the point of occasional full fledged grinds when shifting into second. Before having a lift put in the Wrangler I wanted to be sure the transmission was going to be good for the next 50,000 miles or so, so I took it to a one man transmission shop that was recommended by a long time general automotive mechanic I have known for years.

He couldn't find anything really wrong with the transmission except a little abrasion on the shaft - and he replaced the shaft. He thought the dealer had been using the wrong fluid and initially the transmission shifted better with the fluid he used. However, after only about 1,000 miles, the shifting problem (not the all out grind) is back.

Unfortunately, while it was shifting better, I had a lot of work done on the Jeep. Now I have a 4 inch lift, new tires, new differentials, and new drive shaft, but the transmission is annoying as hell. I can shift REAL slow, or double clutch when going up to 2nd, but that's not a cure, there is still something not meshing like it should.

So, finally, any suggestions? I've even starting thinking of a new transmission, but the wife is going to kill me if it comes to that.

snipped-for-privacy@cox.net

Reply to
Masnor
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I would figure any more spent on that tranny would be just throwing good money after bad. It is toast in my mind. Bad cast maybe.

I would be looking around at the wreckers for one.

Unless you have had your Jeep out to play in the water in the last 1000 miles? The tranny doesn't have a high water vent and they fill up if submerged. They then usually shift bad....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Can something be modified to prevent this mike?

"Mike Romain" wrote

Reply to
Kate

Yes. I pulled the button vent out of mine and put a piece of steel gas line in for a hose nipple. It pressed in but I JB welded it anyway. I them added a piece of transmission cooler line and ran that up by the battery and hooked it in an upside down U or cane handle shape.

There were write-ups for various tranny models, not sure about the new one.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Thank you Mike, I'll add that to my "Smart Things to do" list

Kate

Reply to
Kate

Kate,

Not sure about the rubicon, but most of the diffs have the same problem. Just do like mike said, get some trans cooler hose, pull off the cap, slip the hose on and route it into the engine compartment.

I like to cap mine with a small breather to keep mud and water out, but if one's not availible or it fell out, a knot works just as well.

Carl

Reply to
Carl

I told my hubby about this, we will have a look in the next day or two. Todeay was ANOTHER trip to Lowes *sigh* I hope we get this damn house finished soon. I'm sick of it!

Kate

Reply to
Kate

Kate, I feel the same way, except the house I'm working on is for a customer. What do you guys have left to do?

Carl

Reply to
Carl

Thanks for the response.

It's not been submerged, not before or after any of the rebuilds.

I'm going to try different fluids and maybe some additives before looking for a used replacement. But I may drop by some of the junk yards and see what they are selling for.

Masnor

Reply to
Masnor

That transmission calls for a specific fluid, Pennzoil Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid. It does not use standard gear oil.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

What, the new Jeeps can't go under 'any' water now???

I was under the definite impression that all Jeep diffs and t-cases have high water vents.

They only wanted to change a lot of transmissions by leaving it off those....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Really, not so much, but I'm tired.. just tired. We have to tile one bathroom floor, it's a small room and only a half bath off of the litchen. Then tile the even smaller pantry floor and then grout the entire area. We are going to rebuild the cabinet in the bathroom, replace the sink and faucet and tile the countertop (Travertine)

Then... we still need to get our baseboards up in the dining room and kitchen. Patch and paint walls, there were some BAD moves on electrical boxes so some fairly large patches that need repairing and the walls here are smooth, so it's kind of tedious. We are thinking of putting wainscot in that area but if we do then I'll have to paint the fireplace, and I am not crazy about that idea either.

THEN we are going to redo the kitchen countertops. We have sombeautifu; granite tile but I am having second thoughts. Then lastly, refinishing the kitchen cabinets and maybe replacing the doors, which means we will have to build them. I may just paint them and call it a day. They are really cheesy though, I would like new doors.

Geeze.. it does look like more than I thought.

What are you doing on the house you're working on?

Kate

Reply to
Kate

If it has the wrong fluid or the syncros are going out, it could be causing the symptoms....

Reply to
Kate

Kate,

I've got some Hardi-Plank siding to finish on one gable end, then we need to stain and hang some cedar shake siding for the two tall gable ends. We floated the 6x6 shower stall's floor today, and we'll tile it tomorrow or the next day. We have a little more travertine to put on the shower stall walls, and three granite countertops to make. We also have one more header piece for some of the floor joists, the front and rear patios to pour and set the posts in.

The master shower is AMAZING. It's basicaly 6x6 with four shower heads and a handheld. Completely tile, mostly travertine.

We're also starting an attached shop to an existing home, 28x28 with a breezeway..

Carl

Reply to
Carl

Sounds like a good job, lots of work to do. So, what is YOUR opinion on countertops? I cannot afford solid granite - period. I thought the tile might be a good choice cut now I realize it has a very slightly mitered edge, this will enlarge the toothpick sized grout line that I had planned.

So, I am half considering other options. Trouble is, I already spent $900 on the tiles I have - I think sometimes I am an idiot, and things like this just porve it.

I'd love to see some photos of your project. Wanna see my floor?

Kate

Reply to
Kate

Kate,

I like to put 3/4" plywood on the cabinets, 1/2" hardi-backer (fiber cement board) and then granite or ceramic tile on top. Then i'll cut a rip of tile and put it on the front, and chamfer the edge a little bit. If you use the granite tiles it comes out looking pretty slick, like a near 2" slab of granite. I like to use the 1/16" "+" spacers, but installed with only the down side in, instead of layed flat. This means you need four times as many, but you can pull them out after the tile is set. Either way, I would reccomend 1/16" to 1/8" grout gap, if you are using non-sanded. We use 3/16" on floor tiles, but 1/16" on counter tops and shower walls. Too thin of a grout line just won't hold up to the high stress and water contact of a counter top, nor will too thick.

Another option to consider is a broken tile backsplash. This seems to work better with lots of colored tiles, but I suppose it would work with granite, too. Basically break the tiles into pieces you like the size of, put the glue on the wall and stick them into a pattern you like. I have always thought this was pretty slick looking.

Either way you go, I really reccomend the Hardi-Backer. It comes in 3x5 sheets and it's heavy as crap. Don't get wonderboard, it isn't as consistent as the hardi-backer, and the edges fall apart easily.

If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.

Some old pictures of the house are at:

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I'll get some new ones this week or next showing all the interior work. It is REALLY slick inside!

I would LOVE to see some pics of your project!

Carl

Reply to
Carl

When the Dealer was trying to fix it, the parts list had the correct fluid id, according to the manual. However, when the one-man transmission shop worked on it, he thought the fluid was too thick to be correct. I'm not positive what's in it now, but it feels exactly the same and when the Dealer was working on it.

I'm just afraid that if I replace the transmmission, that the symptoms will still be there and that the problem will have been something else. But, I can't really imagine what else could cause it.

Reply to
Masnor

Heh, that's why we have "education", "writing" and "numbers" now. To help people find the correct transmission fluid. From the description it sounds like a bad second gear synchro clutch, or possibly incorrect mainshaft bearing adjustment. When you said that the dealer "tried a number of things, including rebuilding the transmission, clutch, throwout bearing, etc." do you know that they actually replaced any transmission parts at that time? Because if they didn't, then they didn't really "rebuild" anything. "Rebuild" implies take it apart, identify all worn parts, and put it back together so it works. Do you think this "one man transmission shop" guy you mentioned is any good? If so, bring it back to him and see what he thinks.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

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