dodge intrepid problems

Nov 09, 2003 6 Replies

Help. I have a 1995 Dodge Intrepid. Here is what I notice about it.



In the morning, on the first start, when I switch in reverse to pull out the driveway, it still acts like it's in neutral. So what I'll do is switch into D (drive gear) and then switch back into reverse and maybe get lucky but it might sit there for another 20 seconds and then all of a sudden I feel it shift, a clank, not loud though but enough of a vibration to know that it's ready to roll.



Then the rest of the day driving around, I never have that problem with the reverse gear. I haven't really driven the car around to know if it will exhibit this behavior each and every day but am curious of this sounds like something you all know about.



Today I noticed that it had problems getting out of low gear on the highway for the first 10 minutes or so, which was troubling. I'm going 40 mph at



3000 rpm, not the way I like to do it and then once I stopped and came back to the car about 30 minutes later after taking care of some errands, the car ran fine the rest of the day, shifting like it was supposed to. Never had another problem with it the remainder of the day (30+ miles short trips here and there).

Also, and this is strange. This morning when I first started it out on the road, the instrument panel was non functional, completely. The fuel tank gauge, the speedometer, the tachometer, the coolant temp gauge, they all read 0 and then all of a sudden boom, they shot up to their normal places. This happened the second time I started the car and lasted for maybe a minute and a half before they shot up to their normal places. This is really scary stuff!



I would imagine these are unrelated problems. I did pull out a wasp alarm system - I just disconnected it the night before but I dont think that would be causing the problem would it? (The instrument panel problem, the reverse problem was pre-existing.)



The reverse problem, I have noticed a rather strong knock when I shift into reverse alot of times. I do not think it is normal but the car seems to run really well once I get it in gear and it doesn't make that strong knock/clank 100% of the time when I shift into reverse but maybe 50%.



Cruise control works but the little green light that says "Cruise Contro" doesn't seem to come on very often when I'm in cruise mode. But sometimes it does and tonight I saw it going in and out for some reason, got bright then got dim and then got bright again over the course of 10 seconds or so. . What does this say? Is there some type of electrical wiring problem?



Sorry to depress you all!


For the reverse and shifting out of low problem I'd check your tranny fluid first. It may be low, especially if it's leaking. The fluid may also need changing. Some manufacturers recommend a change every 30k miles. If none of that helps it could be a problem with the tranny itself or the ECU isn't telling it when to shift at the proper time (less likely, but possible). The electrical problems are strange. Are you sure you didn't clip an extra wire or two when you pulled out that alarm? It just be that the cluster has malfunctioned at the same time, making it seem as though they're related.

Well... depending on the way the WASP system was in there... I'd say there is a grounding problem or a cut power wire to the dash... something was pulled out that had to stay.

As for the transmission... I know the symptoms all too well. I have a Plymouth Voyager (2 actually), and mine did the exact same thing. Sounds like your reverse band is not operating properly... but more than that, your governor is the reason that it sticks in first. In my case the material from my worn out reverse band got caught and was making my governor stick... get it serviced fast... otherwise you could do a lot more damage! You can drive it... but when it warms up and works perfect.. it's still doing damage.

Good luck..

Cruise problem may have to do with the clock spring in the steering wheel beginning to go out. Connects steering wheel mounted switches to the steering column wiring. Will eventually affect air bag and horn. These have been a problem with DC vehicles for a few years. Currently there is a recall on several model years of minivan for this problem. It's possible it may be expanded to several other years and models.

Get the trans serviced ASAP. New CHRYSLER filter and ATF+4 only. No snake oil modified Dexron or Mercon. May need to have solenoid pack replaced. Good indication of a bad solenoid pack is a lack of clicking as you slow down as the pack cycles through its various states.

Dashboard problems more than likely a bad ground from the instrument cluster to the chassis. Another possibility is cracked solder connections on the instrument cluster itself.

August wrote:

On the delayed shifting- check all the basics first. Fluid up to normal level? Fluid and filter changed at specified times? How many miles on the car, anyway?

All problems *could* be electrical though. You say you disconnected an alarm system. Scary- these cars are very sensitive to bad ground connections, and the dead instrument cluster really sounds like a bad ground for the Body Control Module wiring. Since the transmission is electronically controlled, bad grounding can give it fits too. It

*should* still engage reverse correctly, but all the delayed shifting troubles may be electrical in nature.

As for the "clunk" go> Help. I have a 1995 Dodge Intrepid. Here is what I notice about it. >

Except that no Dodge Intrepid transmission has ever *had* a reverse band... its an electronic transmission with no bands or overrunning clutches (sprags) whatsoever. All shifts are clutch-to-clutch and computer controlled.

Except that no Dodge Intrepid transmission has ever *had* a governor... the governor function is handled by input (turbine) and output shaft speed sensors that provide information to the transmission control computer.

I had a transmission shop take a look at it and he said it is an internal problem. That's all he said though, he didn't really elaborate and I think he based that conclusion on simply observing (first-hand) the problems I described - he didn't do much diagnostics. He said the transmission was sticking between 2nd and 3rd gears. $389 to pull and examine. Alot more most likely to fix!

What do you all think about getting one out of a "junkyard" and having that put in instead? Can I specify "get one from a car that was running good before it crashed?" :-)

But seriously, it was really strange how the gauges would be dead until the trannie began upshifting and on the exact moment it began upshifting, that's when the gauges came to life.

I can hook the alarm back up and same problems exist. Car has 123k on it. Fluid looks kind of high in level. I was going to try draining and replacing filter but seriously do you all think that would solve my problem?

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