Nasty sound in 5th and trouble engaging in 3rd...95 yj i6

Well, you have to drop the trans and tcase to get to the clutch. The clutch lives in the space between the motor and the trans. You can pull the motor or drop the trans. Most guys that are working at home in the garage will opt to drop the trans to gain access to the clutch. Actually, most guys anywhere will drop the trans to get to the clutch, but it is *possible* to pull the motor instead.

Mine did that once and it was the cluster gears... $$$$

Dennis Gann

Hey guys, thanks for all the help. I took it to the shop today and they said i was going to have to: A. Get a new/new to me tranny or, B. Have mine rebuilt. Both of these options are a bit pricy so i think i will wait a while( they said it would'nt do any more harm, it was gona have to be rebuilt anyway).

So... Being a true idiot/money blower/Jeeper, i got to thinking, is there any nice options i should look at since i have to replace it anyway...

Keep on jeepin,

-Donny <

A bad engine mount can cause the shifter to hit the body and act something like you are describing.

I think I would be pulling off the shifter boot to check before forking out for a rebuild.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

D>

Having been in this position, you might consider the second option. I pulled the BA 10/5 apart after I had swapped in an AX15 and the diffetence is night and day as far as strength goes ( What I really wanted was the inout shaft to use as an alignment tool ). Just the weight difference alone was enlightening: I dropped the BA 10/5 by myself and set it out from under the Jeep with one hand then bought a transmission jack to get the AX15 into place. The BA 10/5 has several obvious weak points in the way the shafts/gears are mounted and that @#$ aluminum synchro set is a kludge from word go. I could go on and on, but the added strength is well worth the effort. I think mine wound up costing me about $1400, but I swapped bell housings, converted to the extrernal slave, and needed several extra parts like new cross members and mount plates since the MJ does not use the skid plate as part of the mounting scheme. The actual cost of the rebuilt tranny (all new bearings and brass) was about half of the total price.

I was having all sorts of trouble with 1-2 shifts and the inut shaft was making ominous noises. Once I tore it down, I could see that I was a few thouandths away from having the idler gears meshing with the input and cluster gears - grenade time. The cost of the synchro assembly alone for rebuild approaches the cost of new tranny itself.

Thats what he said but i am going to have it looked at by another shop because after checking around he gave me a much higher price than what other shops have given me over the phone (of course they havnt driven it so they may say the same thing when i have them check it out).

-Donny

That's probably what they are worth, but check the price of those aluminum synchros sometime - that was the deciding moment when I originally thought about rebuilding my BA 10/5 (before I learned better anyway).