Need help with 98 Grand Cherokee problems

Doesn't sound right.

If you've had to replace the tranny at 40,000, and your brakes have failed 'many times', then perhaps it's time to review your driving style?

J.

Otoh, I read in the automotive section a few years ago about a customer whose transmission failed at 35,000 miles, in a Chrysler products minivan. Although it was out of warranty, he felt that the transmission should have lasted longer than that, and wrote a polite letter to a company executive explaining those feelings. The result was a new transmission, free of charge. This proves that, evidence to the contrary, some of these people do indeed have feelings.

Earle

Jason Backshall proclaimed:

And/or find a new mechanic or stop insisting on the cardboard brake pads and rotors.

For pads & rotors, I use Factory parts.

The brakes haven't failed, but the rotors get a lot of chatter. Thats when I need to have them resurfaced and the pads replaced.

I suppose my driving style could attriute to this, but who defines a "driving style" that has minimal impact on a vehicles parts longevity?

The transmission specialist who replaced the transmission even said the tranny shouldn't have failed at 40K.

If there is somethng i need ot change, I wish I knew how to identify it.

Any suggestions on the speakers. That was my main problem. The tranny & brakes are just a rant.

If you used a torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts, you might never have those brake issues again...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

;^)

Earle

Cappy2112 proclaimed:

That should never happen.

? Someone who complains about brake life would be my first thought.

Was it professionally installed? If so just take it back. I'm sure you paid a shiny penny for this unit and they should give you a fix gratis. It might be possible that an improper 'conversion' mounting kit was not used but more likely one of the things below. What have you tried to irradicate this problem? My guess is the wire to the speaker (one of the two conductors) is making and braking connection. This could occur at the speaker terminal on back of speaker itself, at the splice behind music source (radio, eq., etc), or somehow a wire has been damaged while work was performed (or some other activity) between the source and the speaker. It's also possible a witre may be coming in contact with the body My first choice would be to check the speaker. Remove the grill (cover) of the speaker. Unscrew the speaker from the car - 2 to 4 screws for each process. There should be two wires soldered to the speaker terminals on the back of the speaker. Give them each a tug and one will probably break loose. If not, make sure that there is not any excess bare wire exposed (tape up if there is) or that the speaker connections are not coming in contact with any part of the auto. When you are removing the speaker, if mountings screw were loose that could also be part of the problem. If none of this works it will be a bit more work to pull out the 'Gold Infinity'. Good luck. Steve in Michigan Should be an easy fix.

Yes, I always go to garages for everything on the Jeep. The brakes dont' start chattering until 8-12 months or more after they have been replcaed. It's not like it happens a wek later.

Do you really think anyone would replace the pads again, after more than 10K miles (approx)? I don't- even from a reputable dealer or garage.

the >>speaker. How? The grill is press fitted into the door paenl. I f I tried to pry it out, I'm afriad I would bend the grill or cosmetically damage it.

I'd rather take the door panel off- if it's something i can do without screwing up the window motor mechanism & lock.

Once I get the door panel off, I know how to look for loose wires & bas splcies. It's getting into the door that's a problem.

Thanks for the reply

I"ll have to ask the garage if they use a torque wrench for the lug nuts- I woul dbe surprised if they look up the specs for every car they service.

"Our quality pads and shoes come with the famous Midas lifetime replacement guarantee: Once you purchase them at Midas, you will never, ever have to pay for replacements again for as long as you own your car."

I am thinking that brakes should last more than 8-12 months, but I don't know where you live and drive. I can remember sanding used pads, or putting duct tape or "silencing compound" on the back, to quiet the squealing. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not.

Earle

of the >>speaker.

Thanks for explaining the fine print, Jerry. I have wondered about it. I guess I'll just buy the pads and drag the rotors and drums to the machine shop myself next time. :o(

Earle

You might want to call them and ask. I remember doing the Midas thing on another car and having them replace the pads without charging for labor here in NJ. I had them do an oil change; they had something charged that I benefited from. They did find a leaking slave cylinder that was real and I paid for that too, but no labor for the pads. Yes labor for cutting the drums/rotors if needed. It has been a bit of a while tho... Tomes

Earle Horton did pass the time by typing:

Pads and shoes are dirt cheap. Even the top notch ones like RayBestos CM like my ZJ uses. And guess what, the stuff midol..er midas.. sells is bottom quality. They want you back to get free shoes and pay for the labor.

Please don't use midas, the parts are shit and the "ASE professionals" usually don't know which end of a brake shoe is up.

Did I tell you about the time they tried to install the wrong shoes on my ZJ and I stopped them just as "Mr. ASE Certified Mechanic" was going to weld on the tab that was missing on the new shoes. WELD! ON A BRAKE SYSTEM! After about half an hour of argument and my yanking the MIG welders plug out of the wall, guess what. He had the wrong friggin shoes.

At another midas store, just prior to buying the stillen rotors from kolak. These dolts turned a rotor down using the wrong settings. Turned it fast and left spiral grooves. Then had the unmitigated balls to say they would wear flat. (after what, half the friggin pad?) I just needed the warp turned out so my brakes would be ok for a week or two while the replacements came in. Didn't even last that long. Turns out they cut the pads BELOW safety minimum and that was the _FIRST_ turning. They cut it deep, fast, and WRONG. I could have done a better job with a large rock.

Sorry, I will _NEVER_ recommend midas to anyone and will _ALWAYS_ tell folks to stay well away.

snip

Another trick is to turn all drums and rotors to the maximum allowable. When you come back for your free linings, guess what? You need new rotors or drums because they are already at the legal max.

Actually, their mufflers (used to be anyway) pretty decent. My Grandfather had a 65 Pontiac with duals, 2 muffs, plus 2 resonators. He got free replacements on all 4 over the years. But they would get you on pipes, trying to sell you a pre-bent one for say $200 when any regular muffler shop would make one up for about $30. (This was a few years ago.)

I only patronize local muffler shops these days. They are cheaper and the guys know what they are doing, even with a torch.

Best Regards,

DAve

I wrote tht because I really didn't remember how long between pad changes or rotor resurfacing.

I shouldn't have used chatter either. When I step on the brakes, I feel the pedal vibrate, indicating the rotors need resurfacing or replacing.