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Pressure Bleeding brakes on Jeep Cherokee

I wish to pressure bleed and flush the brakes on my 1997 Cherokee Sport. I have been very impressed with the inexpensively priced DIY pressure-bleeding system available from Motive products and wish to use it for this task. However, there is one problem, the shop manual clearly states that in order to pressure bleed the front brakes the front brake metering valve must be held open by pushing or pulling on the valve stem. I have located the valve on the front (facing the grill) end of the machined aluminum combination valve. I plucked off the rubber grommet to examine the assembly. (the shop manual offers no diagram or detailed directions for this procedure) There is indeed a cylindrical stem, with a a hole in the center, that protrudes from and appears to be held fast by a large thin hex nut. My attempts to push or pull on the stem did not result in any movement, as far as I could ascertain the hex nut must be holding the stem in place. Could someone please provide me with a detailed description of exactly what it is I need to do in order to push in this metering valve. I¹m afraid if I loosen the hex nut the stem will blast out like a projectile showering me with valve parts and brake fluid. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Tony

Reply to
Tony Elka
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There are two or three types of combo valve. On one you have to hold the pin in, on the other it has a clip slot on the pin and you have to hold the pin out and on the third there is no freakin pin.

If you have someone push on the brake pedal with the engine running while you watch the valve, you should see the pin move. The idea is to stop the pin from moving.

If it pushes out, I use a penny and a pair of vise grips to hold the pin in or a hose clamp or C clamp should work.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Is there a reason you want to pressure flush the system? The FSM gives a detailed explanation of the manual method and just a brief description of the forced method that basically just says follow the manufacturer's instructions and be sure the cap fits.

The only drawback is it requires an assistant. After we did my WJ we went next door and then did Ed's XJ.

I have started using synthetic fluids for their increasing superior properties. Synthetic DOT 4 only costs an additional $1 a quart and is compatible with DOT 3 if traces of it remains.

Reply to
Billy Ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

You're right a pro uses the machine to make his living. Is it worthwhile for a grunt to buy the tool?

Reply to
Billy Ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Yep, gravity has always been there when I needed it (and sometimes when I wished otherwise)

Reply to
Billy Ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

and people thought I was crazy when I said I saw Synthetic DOT 3/4 on a WalMart shelve. lol

If you pressure bleed you may not need to move that proportioning valve. Try it and see. ;-) If you do have a problem then open up two bleeders, front and rear, at the same time. I am not sure if you have any warnings about ABS and bleeding with your 1997 Jeep.

Reply to
One out of many daves

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