Got the rear of my YJ Sprung over today, or at least ready for welding. Springing-over is done, pinion angle is dialed in, ect. Talk about a lot of lift!
Now I just need to get that drop pitman arm installed (waiting on it in the mail), and get a Tom Wood CV shaft / tailshaft conversion kit.
Just for getting the Jeep home purposes, how much of my slip yoke will go back into the transfer case with the addition of a 1" t-case drop?
Thanks,
Carl
Not enough. I would recommend you leave the rear driveshaft out and only use the front wheels to drive home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sCarl Saiyed wrote:
Caution: driving without a rear shaft and slip yoke will allow the t-case to spit out all its fluid. Not good. Cut the butt end off a plastic liter water bottle, jam it over the tail cone and duct tape it securely to keep the fluid in. Check it frequently until the fixed yoke is installed.
Steve
Mike Roma> Not enough. I would recommend you leave the rear driveshaft out and
I also hear that a WD40 cap will fit over it and I have heard that some don't spit out fluid?
Mike
Steve wrote:
Haven't heard that some don't, but mine does. The WD-40 cap is a good idea. I may just trailer it home, if I can get a trailer.
Carl
Correct. The NP231J was redesigned in 1996. Among other things, they changed the seal from the slip yoke to the output shaft itself. This is a plus if you stick with a slip yoke (no more empty tcase when you front-wheel out after exploding your Dana 35), but it comes at the expense of a longer tail and therefore steeper driveshaft angle. Another plus is that the 'hack and tap' fixed yoke conversion is less expensive for 1996+ NP231 because it doesn't involve replacing the seal.
Steve
Mike Roma> I have heard that some don't spit out fluid?
If you can get a trailer?
Isn't that alot like, if we had some eggs we could make a ham and egg sandwich, if we had some ham?
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