WTB: Weber K552 Carb

I'm wondering if anyone has a used one of these, or a new one under the typical retail price of $350? I'd like to replace the p.o.s. stock one if possible. It's either I do a full out engine/tranny/carb swap for a 350-V8 with Fuel Injection, or I replace the carb now and hope for no engine death.

Thanks

Reply to
griffin
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From the ones I have seen, the 'Weber-Carter' BBD you have on there now is a great carb. The problem is the Ford emissions computer. Even when it is working perfect, it acts like a governor on the engine.

If you are going to change the carb, then you have to disable the emissions computer anyway because it will go into 'limp home' mode and clamp down on things like the timing advance.

When you disable the computer and manually set up the carb mix and timing, you will get an instant 25% 'seat of the pants' power boost and I for one got a nice mileage boost also.

It is easy. I just add two new wires and hook the orange and purple wires at the ignition module directly to the orange and purple wires at the distributor rather than mess inside the wiring harness like the author of this link does:

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If needed you also can pass emissions manually tuned up. Does your 85 have to pass then out there? My 86 is coming up on it's 'last' emissions test soon!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griff>

Reply to
Mike Romain

I think I might try that then. I don't believe there is emissions testing here at all. I will double-check that as well.

The orange/purple wires from the distributor connect to the coil bolted on the firewall via that 3-prong connector, don't they? Where exactly did you connect them?

Reply to
griffin

You will find the ignition module 'Waaaayyyy' down under the washer bottle at the bottom of the driver's side fender. This is where the distributor orange and purple wires end up. You will need about 7' for each wire to tuck them into the loom out of sight.

I recommend twisting the two new wires together which takes up an extra foot or so but keeps them organized and helps cut down on any RF interference that might be around. I also solder and heat shrink the connections with either dielectric grease inside the heat shrink or that new double walled stuff from Canadian Tire that has the glue inside. It is wicked waterproofing and stressproofing stuff. (I take my CJ7 'swimming' pretty regularly so like waterproof wires.)

I usually hook them to the distributor wires about 2" inside the loom at that end. This makes it a tidy job and a basically invisible one too if anyone was looking like for a visual on emissions.

20 year old vehicles are exempt here in Ontario and they are even talking about canceling the testing because it can be too much of a money scam. The famous 'oh we can't test it with an oil drip or that little exhaust leak our stethoscope picked up' BS is catching up with them...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griff>

Reply to
Mike Romain

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