Decking a roof rack

I'm hoping to place a floor on the roof rack that will sustain my muscular physique standing up top ;-) , I suppose to double as viewing platform, Air
show pic-nic area for the nippers and such like along with the odd roof rack duties when caravanning thus allowing for tie down points midway etc.
I'm pondering the options whilst trying to balance the cost and weight
What are peeps thoughts for material?
Lee
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On or around Mon, 26 Feb 2007 13:10:17 -0000, "Lee_D"

more cost less weight
ally treadplate steel treadplate
plywood
more strength
about that, I should think. strongest and heaviest would be steel, lightest would be ally, and priciest. plywood somewhere in the middle depending on how thick.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
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summat worrerz funny about:

I'm leaning to the ply though concerned that I don't know enough about getting the right type of ply. Delaminating at 70 mph is not something I'd want to be a party to. Any pointers as to what sorts of ply I should be seeking and also what to treat said ply with to preserve it and make it safe (no moss).. I'd guess a type of Yatch varnish?
Lee D
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enlightened us thusly:

Davy M.
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about:

There is no doubt that the fuel consumption may be affected , but the 24ft 1300kg caravan behind will no doubt affect it anyway creating such disturbances to airflow that the roof rack will be negligable. Besides a 110 hardly has aerodynamics at the heart of it's design features. Also the last vehicle I towed the caravan with was a 101 Ambulance and the return on that trip was 9 mpg. If the TD gives me 20 towing with the rack on I'll be a happy chicken :-)
Then theres the fact that I won't be doing 70 with the caravan on (your worship!) :-)
If of course normal running about solo produces horrific results I will either remove the rack and place it in the garden until required, or go in the other car. The fact that the board would follow the line of the origional roof can surely not make that much difference to a rack with no boarding at all.
Lee
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On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 14:36:32 -0000, "Lee_D"

You want 'marine ply' as is used for trailers. Sold in B&Q i believe. Should cope with getting wet and drying out. Everybody i know just used generic varnish or paint on it and it seems to do the job.
I might be off to get a sheet so can possibly deliver you one too if it fits in the back of the 101! (or you can get it from here and jigsaw it down to fit on the roofrack on my drive)
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about:

<gulps>
shit how big are the boards! The roof rack is just over 4ft by 9 I reckon.
Lee
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On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 20:56:49 -0000, "Lee_D"

not sure, but i was assuming using sods law that they were a bit bigger than you could easily fit in a normal vehicle :) ...
I have not been to price up yet. might get there tommorrow on the way home from work to have a gander.
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about:

How much was that chequer plate from Switchblade? I'm now toying with this.
Lee
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On Tue, 27 Feb 2007 19:44:25 -0000, "Lee_D"

'bout 70 for a sheet of 3mm (IIRC), plus 5 at the place next door to get it cut in the guilloteen to my measurements.
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On or around Mon, 26 Feb 2007 20:56:49 -0000, "Lee_D"

normal sheets are the metric equivalent of 8'x4'.
--
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On Mon, 26 Feb 2007 14:36:32 -0000, "Lee_D"

I put 3/4" marine plywood on my D90's rack and coated it on both sides with paint on truck bed liner. I attached it to the rack with U bolts.
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to the ply though concerned that
I don't know enough about

Marine ply is the best grade I think. However, my mate re-did the floor of his car trailer with MP and after about 2 years outdoors it delaminated and now needs re-doing.
I think that chequer plate aluminium is the dogs bollocks for your application.
Julian.
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Right having been hovering over a bid on ebay for some galv mesh earlier really cheap and consulting the financial manager before committing... the financial manager took one look and also said "Nah ....Chequer plate" <me stunned>... I mentioned likey cost and got a expression which seemed to support the concept :-D
So I've emailed the local outlet and done some scratch pad math. I can get away with one new sheet.. use part of an old sheet but it leaves a hole (currently in my design) right over the sunroof... which I did consider using a small amount of galv mesh but then came to my senses and thought PING! Waffle boards slid into channels (to secure them) and cover said hole at the same time and let the light through whilst also protecting the sunroof BUT also allowing the waffle boards and Sunroof to be removed for when I go hunting Big game.
Ok so maybe little game from the comfort of the cubby box ;-)
Only down side so far is waffle board storage once covered in Mud... but thats a contingencey I'll work in with the rest of the build.
Lee D
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uttered summat worrerz funny about:

You're around the Stoke on T area IIRC? I've had a thought. There's a chap that does horse box conversions, just off Jn18 M6 - Chris Holmes, Cheshire Horse Boxes, I think. (I can find a contact # if you want) I know that when he converts the 7.5 ton box vans he normally takes up the Chequer P A from the floor. I bet he has some that he'll let you have at a good price.
Julian.
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If you're thinking of those fibreglass-style waffle-boards that are a few inches thick, I've got a few of those and used them once. If they're chucked in mud, when lifted up they are solid lumps of mud that are devils to clean and weigh an astonishing amount more.
You can't then put them on the roof of the truck because as you drive along, large square cubes of mud drop out and sit on the roof until you go round a corner, at which point they slide off and can end up going into oncoming traffic, or bouncing along the road behind you to bother the cars behind. There's often lots of stones in the kind of mud that stops a truck.
Some of the metal sand ladders might be better, I've never used those so don't know what their shortcomings are.
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On or around Mon, 26 Feb 2007 14:36:32 -0000, "Lee_D"

marine ply is best, otherwise external grade. thickness depends on how much support and how much load. 1/2" is good enough for walking on with support about a foot apart, but it'd be no good if only supported at the edges, for example. with lots of support, you could go down to 3/8" or 10mm.
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</snip>

AKA. Spar Varnish. I used 6 applications, both sides. No problems. Drill all holes first for mounting hardware then apply finish.
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Chicken coop flooring. It's a mesh, available in a composite material, a few dozen cable ties and you're good. Strong enough to stand on, no problem even if you're a bloke & not a chicken.
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worrerz funny about:

I've toyed with stuff with 2 in by 2 inch squares in galv is this what you mean? If not do you have any links please.
Lee
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