Lucas c40 generator substitute

just replace it with an alternator there is a website with the details at

when you say rebuilding a C40 the only thing I have needed to do (in the distant past mind you ) was replace the brushes and clean up the commutator to bring it back to health unless maybe you have a more knackered item its definately a home workbench jobDerek

Get the cast alternator mounting bracket off a later engine (it will fit straight on) and fit a Lucas 17/ACR alternator. You can use the same wiring, it's very easy to change, and do away with the dynamo control box (all the regulation and diodes are self contained in the alternator). I've got a reconditioned (old stock) dynamo on the shelf that you can have cheap but I don't know how much it would cost to send to the States, failing that you should be able to fit something off an American car with a bit of ingenuity.

Martin

Alternator mounting bracket - 574855 ( 5/16" U.N.F thread) Superceded by ETC4357 ( 8mm x 1.25mm thread) either will fit.

Alternator - RTC5083 E

Dynamo - RTC3840 E

Martin

Lucas 17ACR will fit straight on with the mounting brackets from a Series II. But you have to take the crankshaft pulley off the engine to change the top bracket - the bolt is behind it

AlexI

It is possible you can easily repair your C40, although in my experience they usually fail by the bush at the back end wearing due to poor lubrication or dust ingression and resulting poling and burning out the armature or field or both. It should be possible to find a straight replacement for it in the US from generator equipped cars of similar vintage, but most people replace them with alternators these days. The most direct suggestion would be to source the parts (numbers given by other posters) from one of the UK posters that advertise in the Landrover Magazines. You can fit any alternator that is physically more or less the right size even if you have to fabricate a bracket rather than import one. Another suggestion would be to contact a US specialist such as Rovers Down South in New Orleans. JD

I think you will find it's the same as the late engines, the long bolt threaded into the alternator bracket goes through the block whilst the two bolts at the front will need slightly longer ones of 5/16" U.N.F thread up to the Series 3 five bearing engine when they changed to M8 x 1.25, depending where you got the bracket from you could end with U.N.F in the block and M8 in the bracket (check the holes first)

Martin

On or around Sun, 1 Oct 2006 22:01:00 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

I'm only going by what I was told. This is something like 1959 engine, and it's not the same as a later SII one that the same chap had.

Im sure you could fit an alternator to any engine if you were determined enough! :) Me and a mate managed to fix a pulley driven vacuum pump to his 2.25D to power his brake servo. There are plenty of bolts you can use for fixings and i think i welded up a simple angle bracket for the back mount.

Early Series 2s had the 2 litre overhead inlet and side exhaust valve engines, they probably meant those, but they had the dynamo mounted at the top right hand side of the engine, but AFAICR the early 2286cc engines with engine nos. starting 15........ had the small crank and different block but the dynamo mountings were the same as later engines as were the early 2 litre diesels. Even the 200 Tdi has that lump cast on the block, it's not drilled but could be.

Martin

On or around Sun, 1 Oct 2006 23:28:46 +0100, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

AFAIK it's a 2286. If the bloke's still got it I could have a look one day.