Okay, what I broke now?!

Assuming engine running and clutch up that indicates that there is no drive getting to the gearbox train... I wouldn't expect a sloppy pedal to release the clutch, so there should be drive. If there is drive getting to the gearbox train being able to change gear with out graunching at least some of the time in the main box and all the time in the transfer box (no synchro) would be rather difficult.

Center of clutch plate failed. Sloppy pedal because you are just moving the plate center along the shaft as the clutch springs are no longer acting on this part. No drive as the plate center is no longer attached to the friction material part.

On or around Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:05:38 GMT, Doug Baiter enlightened us thusly:

transmission type, vehicle type, age and mileage?

do you mean the clutch pedal feels normal, or like it's not connected to anything?

Unless the clutch driven plate has gone completely AWOL, it'd not go in and out of gears. Clutch operation failure almost always (especially with a hydraulic clutch) results in it staying engaged and inability to shift any gears except with the engine off.

The most common thing (depending on vehicle) is the infamous gearbox output shaft/transfer box input gear spline problem, I'm afraid, and it's not easy or cheap to sort.

Has the transfer box actually gone into low box or stuck in neutral? Or if you've had difficulty moving the high/low lever due to stiffness through lack of use have you been unusually over zealous with the clutch pedal thinking to ease the situation? It's possible for the clutch slave cylinder to seize in the out position and hold the clutch in the released position which could also give you a sloppy pedal which may or may not pump up because of an accumulation of filth and rust in the master cylinder as well. In that case you would/could get the symptoms you describe and it would select all gears easily and quietly but still have no drive. Can be checked by releasing the two bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing (engine stopped of course) and allowing the cylinder to swing out on the pipe, select a gear and turn starter to see if you then have any drive. It pays to flush out and change the clutch/brake fluids every couple of years or so as it absorbs water in time. Or it could be the mainshaft/transfer box splines as Austin says, or the clutch plate centre broken though I would expect to hear some noise from that.

HTH Martin

Ooops, yes it would have helped to identify the car! Sorry, its a '91

200Tdi Defender, manual. I like your potential explanation more than Austins - not only is it cheaper(!) but its come as a bit of coincidence that only five days ago the following happened: I couldn't engage any gears at all, 'graunched' despite (normal-feeling) clutch pedal on the floor. Investigation revealed empty master cylinder, then the pedal sank to the floor with no resistance and still no gears. Garage picked it up and returned it a day later with new slave cylinder on, apparently the old one became fubar. Hi and Lo range _appear_ to engage properly, it feels just like its always done slipping between the two, and the dashboard difflock light comes on as it should when I slip the lever left. All gears seem to be engaging correctly, I can feel the usual slight resistance to second which isn't there if I go via first first (if you get my drift!). For ease of remote diagnosis (and I have to say thanks very much for all replies) there was _no_ accompanying nasty noises when it happened - I just had drive, and then I didn't. Its _possible_ that the garage didn't change the fluid when swapping the cylinder I guess, maybe some contaminant has slipped into the master cylinder and is keeping the clutch out

On or around Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:23:56 GMT, Doug Baiter enlightened us thusly:

sounds a possibility. worth investigating, anyway - undo the clutch slave, see if it re-engages the clutch.