RR 3.9 auto - gear selector slack

May 19, 2007 7 Replies

Finally managed to get the top off the gear selector to enable the source of the slack to be found and eliminated. One source seems to have been the pin which prevents the centre shaft of the selector from twisting. Pin was loose in the bottom of the well under the selector quadrant. I'll be b*******d if I can get the pin back into the hole in the shaft, so goodness only knows how it came out. Is it a serious centre punch-type fit or what? If so can I remove the selector just by removing the D ring securing the shaft and two bolts fixing the quadrant to the side of the well?


Also there is slack in the selector cable itself. Is it safe to remove some (all?) of the slack at the gearbox end of the cable (if possible) and can this be done without upsetting the autobox gear selection?



TIA



Richard



PS I can't see a separate part number for the pin in my CD manual but it is item 5 in the fiche page 276 (Sep 04) showing assembly RTC5008



R

Hi Richard

I have the pin - it and 3 of the screws which hold the cover on the illuminated gear selected thingy were rattling about in the well below the bottom of the gear selector. The pin actually prevents the centre rod of the gear selector assy rotating, thus keeping the detent dog sitting square on the selector quadrant. I've managed to force the pin back in with the help of a pair of waterpump pliers. Doing so has reduced the slop quite considerably.

Apart from checking for adjustment at the gearbox end of the cable I now _only_ have to glue the bit of veneer back onto the top cover for the selector.

Richard

The little star means it part of RTC5008, the + means it's not available separately. So you'd have to buy a an RTC5008, or find a a pin that fits - it looks like it is there to stop the gearsick lifting/falling too far.

Richard

On or around Sat, 19 May 2007 16:46:14 +0100, Richard enlightened us thusly:

the indexing is internal in the box, so you won't upset it by adjusting the cable. Having said that, I don't recall if you can or not.

I'm going to be trying to get the ford A4LD lever to work a ZF 4HP22 before long...

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Austin Shackles wittered on forthwith;

Do you think that'd be hard to do? For some unexplainable reason I'd really like to have the P6 type selector (the one with the button in the top of the lever) instead of the rather clunky Range Rover one. Can't see how it'd be too difficult to sort but if you find out how I'd like to know.

On or around Sat, 19 May 2007 20:45:13 +0100, "Pete M" enlightened us thusly:

the RR lever is literally just a lever, bar for the detents to stop you going from D to P in one go, etc.

You need to study the travel of the bottom end of the lever in the various positions. One thing you will find is not enough lever positions on the P6 one, P6 used a BW 35, IIRC, 3-speed with P-R-N-D-L or maybe D-2-1, whereas the ZF needs D-3-2-1. The point about the Ford lever in the tranny I've got for the project is it has the same gear pattern (P-R-N-D-3-2-1) and the spacing looks similar, so it should be just a matter of making the lever movement agree with the detent positions in the box.

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Austin Shackles wittered on forthwith;

Phooey.

All I want is a gear selector that's less ugly than the Rangie one, but the Rangie detent button pulls up instead of pushing down.

I wonder if a Bentley one can be molished to fit, the whole lever pulls up in those but that shouldn't really be an issue.

On or around Sat, 19 May 2007 22:13:23 +0100, "Pete M" enlightened us thusly:

You don't *need* anything more than a lever with sufficient travel. However, you do have to do it right all the time - the thing with the button or wotever (or zig-zag gate) is for when your brain's on holiday, and stops you doing silly stuff.

on the 110 I never got around to wiring up the inhibitor, so it could be started in gear. Only once did I nearly take off into the car parked in front as a result.

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