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Advice requested re replacement of rear hub/bearing

Hi guys,

I own a '99 Hyundai Coupe (F2 Evo if it makes any difference if it makes any difference to this question) and am getting a progressively worse 'droning' noise from the rear nearside area of the car. A local garage has confirmed (or rather spotted without prompting) this as being a failing wheel bearing.

He advised me that the bearing/hub is a single sealed unit/assembly and thus is fixable only by replacment. I was quoted £159 part(s) and £59 labour (all exc VAT). I intend on getting a second opinion but how does this sound? I was expecting the labour charge but the parts costs threw me a little - or is this a reflection of the fact that a whole hub/bearing is required?

A quick search on the web revealed an admittedly sparse service manual page on the topic of replacing the bearing/hub at

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and given it appears to be relativelystraightforward I thought I may as well spend the equivalent labourcharge on any special tools required and do the job myself. And maybeI could source the parts cheaper elsewhere too. So (finally!), I'd be grateful for any hints/advice/suggestions for this task - is it really as simple as the above link implies? The Haynes-manual-cynic in me is expecting seased nuts, practically welded-on hubs etc etc...

Also, what special tools (if any) would be required - I'm thinking along the lines of a bearing puller (is this required in my case?) to get the old piece off and something to 'crimp the nut' (properly!)? I must confess to not knowing *exactly* what this is referring to - I'm assuming it is a means to prevent it undoing however I'm sure inspection of what's already in place will make it obvious.

Once again, I'd be grateful for any input...

Cheers,

Mat

Reply to
Mathew J. Newton
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Not exactly a "sealed unit" I would have said, but there is a trend towards having the inner race of a hub bearing machined into the hub rather than as a separate part pressed in. I'm not familiar with your car but this is the case on Nissan Micras. Shouldn't need any special tools, and crimping the nut should be a simple matter of bashing the deformable rim with a hammer and punch into a groove to stop it coming loose.

Steve

Reply to
shazzbat

A hub with integral back-to-back angular-contact-ball races is pretty much standard on higher end/sports cars these days. Price is pretty average too. You probably won't need a puller, just a brass drift or hammer. A 3-legged puller only required if the inner is well seized on. One thing you will need for sure, is a good quality torque wrench and the correct torque values for this vehicle. If you just try and 'wing' it, you'll be doing the same job again soon.

JB

Reply to
JB

Be careful when removing the hub nut as I have seen a few of these tear the thread off the stub axle when being removed.

-- (º·.¸(¨*·.¸ ¸.·*¨)¸.·º) «.·°·. DEMON .·°·.» (¸.·º(¸.·¨* *¨·.¸)º·.¸)

Reply to
Demon

Doesn't sound far out for a 1 piece hub.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I think I will indeed give it a go if only for the lessons learnt - hopefully the lesson won't be not to ever do it again!

Incidentally, the link to the service manual I posted may not have worked when you click(ed) on it... Hitting refresh though at the 'file not found' error appears to successfully get the document however... weird...

Mathew

Reply to
Mathew J. Newton

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