Exchange alternator or DIY

The bearing puller looks like it would work, but it is not necessary to split the alternator open to replace the brushes.

Modern alternators are not going to be 'strained' by the condition of the battery. Indeed can't think of any that would.

it certainly used to happen in the days of 17acr units, but not in the last twenty years or so.

First alternator equipped car I had was a Rover P6 3500 built in 1969. So

The Lucas control boxes were either two-coil, which had a cut-out, and voltage control, or three coil, which added current control.

Chris

Well it often seemed to be that the cars that were nursed on with a knackered battery for months or years needed a new alternator shortly after the battery eventually got replaced, or at the same time, so it definitely appeared that the worn out battery hastened the demise of the alternator, it seems unlikely to be coincidence on so many vehicles (probably a dozen or more in my memory)

I agree it doesn't seem to be a problem nowadays, but in general people won't put up with bump starting, jump starting etc.so batteries get changed earlier, they also seem to be cheaper in regard to income. Most people have no clue as to bump starting any longer and that is a sign of increased reliability.

Not yet.

I think it looks like this. Mine is a 1.8 GS. They say 1.8, but maybe it is the vtec type of engine. Whether they are different I do not know.

Even the two coil types had current limiting - otherwise the dynamo could be overloaded and burn out. It consists in its simplest form of a series coil on the regulator which counteracts the flux from the shunt coil.

The three coil version was just a development of this.

That wasn't really electro-mechanical though.

No, the two-coil and three coil systems were both in use for a long time.

Chris

Yes it is. It's the standard two bobbin regulator that Lucas made for years.

They were - but the two bobbin came first. Before that you had a high/low switch to set the output - usually part of the lighting switch. So only a cutout. I think on those resistance in the wiring etc saved the generator from self destructing. But that's a guess.

Reminds me of the time I was running a garage many years ago. I very good old customer brought in his XJ6 because it wasn't charging, 'twas Friday late afternoon, getting ready to go home and I discovered that we only had a

ISTR the trade price for a re-con alt (Lucas - other types were more) was about £15 back then. It certainly wasn't worth the time and effort trying to resurrect duff ones with new bits and pieces.

Julian.

Sounds about right, cheaper than a bettery & about the same lifespan.

I believe you can still cause havoc with the voltage regulator if the battery voltage remains too low over a long period of time.

Ah, Lucas...the Prince of Darkness...

Not to mention only 6% of cars sold in the US have 5-speeds. The rest are Automatics. Last AT I was able to bump-start was a 1964 Chevy Biscayne with a three-speed auto. You had to get it up to about 25 MPH minimum so we used to park it on hills all the time...

It does make sense to replace the bearings if you are going to split the alternator open, but it is not necessary to split it open to replace the brushes. The brush holders and brushes are accessed by removing the cover on the back side of the alternator, so you do not need to remove the pulley. Just disconnect the battery cables at the battery, then at the alternator. Remove the black plastic cover to access the rectified and brush holders.

And you criticise Lucas electrics...

Can I ask why you want to replace the brushes? Sounds like you've not actually examined them.