Fiesta Zetec 1.25 (97) running problems

Hi

Wondered if you could possibly help me with a query.

I fitted a second hand engine to a 97 Fiesta zetec 1.25se. Now it starts and idles fine but as soon as you open the throttle it sounds like there is a rush of air in the inlet manifold and the engine revs dip like it is being smothered. (I have checked all the usual, vac pipes manifold leaks and elec plugs all in and tight. Also worth noting is that I changed almost everything over from the old engine as the new one had the gas recirc pipe work. The Engine code is the same.) This translates to a brief kangaroo affect or sometimes a stall if cold and just pulling away. Under normal driving it is pretty good but not achieving full revs through the gears making it under powered. I was at full throttle up a slight incline but it did not pull and when I let of the throttle slightly it surged with power. Any ideas?

Reply to
Rigmech
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A cheap FCR is probably the easiest way to diagnose it. Assuming it's not an air leak.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Sounds like the Cat has collapsed / exhaust is blocked.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Cat is ok.

No air leaks.

Everything on the car is the same as it was before the engine change. Engine was changed in one day, and i drove the car to the garage prior. Every thing was fine, apart from the bottom end knock, which was the reason for the engine change.

So this leads me to think that it's an electrical problem. ALL conectors have been split and re-connected to check for security. As I said before all mechanical parts have been retained from the old engine. The battery was disconnected throught the work. Has this effected the ECU? does it need to re- learn? There were only two sensors not retained and they were the crank position sensor and the coolant temp sensor. Could a faulty CTS cause my simptoms? the read out in the car seems to be working!

Cheers guys.

Reply to
Rigmech via CarKB.com

A Faulty CTS or wiring thereof would not cause your problems.

If you are sure the exhaust is ok, and there are no air leaks, disconnect the AMM plug and go for a drive. If 90% of the power is there, replace the AMM.

Otherwise, its time for the FCR and start looking at live data.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Ok will try that when i get of the rig.

Thanks Tim.

I did try a drive with no intake ducting on but it would not even pull away, just huge Kangaroos and then stall. Would doing that achieve the same result as disconnecting the AMM?

Reply to
Rigmech via CarKB.com

No.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

have you checked the cam timing? I wasted hours on an underperforming engine once and eventually found that it was one tooth out on the cam chain.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Yes,

I fitted a new belt when the engine was out.

Cheers

Reply to
Rigmech via CarKB.com

In message , Mrcheerful writes

Its definitely worth checking on these engines as the crank pulley isn't keyed to the crank and its easy to lose the timing when doing up the pulley retaining bolt.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

then I would definitely recheck that it is correct.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Its definitely correct.

Cheers guys

Reply to
Rigmech via CarKB.com

MAF sensor working OK?

Tony

Reply to
Tony Brett

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