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McPherson top mount questions.

It's a bit frustrating is actually what it is Harry but nothing I won't resolve, given time and hopefully not too much money. ;-)

The problem is that although coilover's are a fairly common / simple solution they aren't often used on this base vehicle in this way, ie, they normally (especially where the escort is concerned) provide lower and stiffer whereas I want longer and softer. ;-)

I have already lost a bit of the softness with the poly bushes and a slightly heavier duty damper insert, could lose a bit more with the tyres if I'm not careful (6-8ply etc) and it looks like might lose some more if I have to go for the rigid bearing top mount. At the end of the day this is supposed to be a comfortable runaround, not a rally car. :-(

Because I stripped the donor and built the kit myself (well, our selves, 'she' got very involved at the time) I know pretty well what it's made of and how it works. What I don't know is what is currently available and what makes a worthwhile step forwards.

The simplest solution to the springs would be some standard Escort +

1" + a couple of pounds but they need to be specially made, aren't adjustable.

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m
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You'll find that most competition and tuned Mk1 and Mk2 Escorts have "roller top mounts". There are two sizes of strut top on RWD Escorts, large and small (Pre-78 was large, IIRC). Bilstein do, or did, rollers for the large strut top, but not for the small ones. I discovered many moons ago that, IIRC, RWD Datsun Sunnys had roller top mounts that fitted Bilstein shocks and were the perfect fit for a "small mount" Escort.

Adjustable top mounts are / were also available, so you can adjust camber, fitting an RS1800 anti roll bar will give you extra castor, rose jointed track rod ends are available for extra precision, and if you get a "double width kit" for the front ARB you can also introduce a small amount of anti-dive geometry.

I used to do all this to my Mk2 RS 2000's, made a hell of an improvement to the way they handled.

Reply to
Pete M

Standard RS2000 springs are around 100 lb. I don't know what your kit weighs, or what you want to acheive with it. If you want off road ability go for longer, lighter poundage springs as wheel travel is the holy grail off road.

Reply to
Pete M

Yeah and I can't remember what I have got now. From memory it was one of the few things you had to specify when ordering the kit. Mind you the top of the turret is heavy duty plate so it wouldn't take much to adapt it. ;-)

Hmm, if only the Bilstein shock was the same size as the std Escort one that might be a cheaper solution?

I've poly-bushed the TCA, steering rack, ARB to TCA and also did the double width conversion on the ARB to chassis. Not for any 'performance' related reasons really, more to stop the rubber perishing and stop the wheels pulling back in the arches under heavy breaking.

I bet .. but was it a car you would still be happy to drive to Scotland it Pete (I was thinking comfort here)?

When I first built the kit I used the std exhaust and prop shaft but cut 10" out of both, just to get me through the first MOT / examination etc. The prop was still on there some 10 years later but the exhaust wasn't very nice in the first place so I went for the Rickman supplied stainless steel one. It was on there about two weeks as I simply couldn't stand the noise. I managed to locate a Grundy (was it?) std ss saloon system and it's been on there and nice and quiet ever since. ;-)

This is back to 'one man's meat' etc. I was 'recommended' both the exhaust and replacement springs by a very technical and experienced Rickman guy but both were totally un-useable, not just 'not ideal,' un useable!).

All the best ..

T i m.

Reply to
T i m

Ok. According to the HBOL the MKI/II's range had between 85 (saloon) and 135 lb/in (GT and Van) but they were often shorter and / or a different coil diameter.

I'm going to get it back on the weigh bridge asap to find out (I'll weigh the front and back separately) but think it's quite a bit more than a std MKII Saloon.

Yup, that was the setup I've had most of the car's life and am keen to get back to asap.

One of my test for suspension compliance was to put a front wheel up a high kerb and see if the door was sticky to open (it showed how much work the suspension was doing of if it was flexing the chassis). With the original setup it opened as easy as you like, now it sticks badly. :-(

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Definately.

I had a stainless exhaust specially made for my 'best' RS. A quiet one.

Reply to
Pete M

Well try Peter Lloyd, they used to do +3" in standard ratings.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Good. ;-)

Nice.

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Just did and from stock they start at 145 lb Duncan but they are looking into maybe getting some made for me (std +1").

I'll let you know how I get on.

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

I did look at the HBOL pictures for the MkII Capri and just couldn't tell. So the top spring cup is fixed solidly to the mounting plate then? I've not had the Capri apart yet to find out - it's on this summer's agenda!

Reply to
asahartz

Well as you've no doubt found out, changing the top mount to a "roller=20 top" is pretty much the de-facto standard in motorsport. For the =A3100=20 it costs, I'd say to do it and it's definitely getting done to my Capri=20 because the results are like fitting power steering. It will work OK=20 with the rubber but the steering will be heavier.

--=20 Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't=20 looking good either. - Scott Adams

Reply to
Conor

But I'm not going to race the Ranger Conor! The thing is, alongside precision and adjustability often comes noise and harshness, something I'm really trying to avoid with this car and why manufacturers often fit fairly soft bushes in their vehicles.

The steering is actually very light anyway so something I can lice without (and that's even with these stiffer springs).

I'm not sure the coilovers with work without the bearings though will they (not enough space in the coils to absorb the wind up / down)?

Anyway, I've had a rough quote for std +1" at about 100 quid, they will be the simplest to fit and guaranteed not to affect the steering function in any way. And, I retain the offset spring, countering the side loads on the damper to some degree.

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Not quite .. it goes like this (as in separate parts) threaded on damper rod ..

Lower spring cup (welded to leg) > spring > upper spring cup > rubber bush (bonded to steel spacer tube and outer mount) > U retainer > top nut.

Test: Put yer hands up under the wheel-arch, grab the top spring cup with both hands and see if you can rotate it at all on the damper rod (and against the spring). If you can it's on a bearing, if you can't it's like mine! ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

Don't know them all, but on my SD1 there is a roller bearing in the top mounting that does the rotary element - the 'vertical alignment' is via the rubber surround. And the complete spring and cups turn with the strut

- anything else would give peculiar steering IMHO. The top 'cup' is clamped in place by the nut on the end of the strut thread.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Understood, the setup as found on everything (MacPherson strutted) other than old Escorts and Capris it seems Dave. I was helping a mate this evening who owns an old Goodwood Capri and I even think that works the same way.

Well, it's how it is on this car and the feel of the steering isn't something I've ever felt was anything over than 'good'?

One thing I have missed when driving the Rover and her Astra is the turning circle of the kitcar! Another reason why the rear wheels should do the driving and the fronts the steering ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Reply to
T i m

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